PRINT: Climb Tafoni Baloney, San Francisco Bay Area

Tafoni Baloney

V4-, Boulder,

Avg: 2.9 from 35 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Castle Rock Ar… > Indian Rock Side > Rdside Boulder

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

On the backside of the boulder. Start low on the side clings, work right to the underlings, then finish up left through the heucos and slopey top.

Protection

Pads

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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Harris
San Francisco, CA

V4-

youtu.be/ashpkKOq9Rg
Felt v4ish and fun this way. Didn’t try the line that goes right then up. At least a star for Approach and landing! Minus a star for Bologna spelling goof ;) Jul 19, 2020

Reese Stanley

This climb is mediocre, you're better off walking 3 mins down the trail to go climb something more interesting. This isn't a bad climb, it just isn't nearly as fun as the majority of other boulders in the area. Go do something else and then come back to this when you're bored. Feb 23, 2021

lucaskers
Mountain View, CA

Looking into baloney vs bologna I believe the spelling is intentional. I'll have to dig out some older guides to see if it is spelled consistently. May 26, 2021

Adam Stackable
Tulsa, OK

Great problem. V1 in Chris Summit’s guidebook and that feels about right. There might be a height move for some though, near the top. Aug 21, 2022

Alex Pfiffner

V4+

If you have strong fingers for the grade this will feel easy, if you don't it will feel impossible. This is probably where the range of opinions come from. The incut crimp up top is amazing to grab, hopefully it doesn't break. May 17, 2023

Joe Forrester
Palo Alto

Funky top out, but close to the car. Nice to have a couple of pads.
youtu.be/R2yGvIQuQ4U Jul 9, 2023