DO THIS ROUTE! Starts off 5.11c-ish right off the deck as you pull yourself into a dihedral-like trap from which the only escape is a desperate gastone fingerlock to good pockets at the second clip. From there, this climb is on your ass the whole way and pretty gosh darn fun as phuck from every huck to every muther-hucking huck...there are absolutely no holds that suck.
Enjoy pockets, crimps and some really tight fingerlocks to the muther-trucker of all jugs. Get a good shake and be prepared to take on a crack to an overhung shield of face climbing that requires you to use the sickest 5.11 mono in the canyon to several more glorious hucks of glory to the anchors. This route is nearly as hard as Tubular and just as cool as routes like The Thunderhead's Zephyr II that require hard, in your face technical moves with super-duper endurance and a well-rehearsed road map of beta.
If you love this grade on limestone, this climb is a must do!
Second Route from the right-hand most side of The Wall of Wow.
If you have Cronin's Guidebook find Tubular and go one route to the right. Just to the left of a big, ole boulder on the other side of the pipe.
10 quickdraws and open anchors. Sticking clipping the second takes the bite out of the desperation at the very beginning.
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Charles Yang
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[Hide Comment] Super fun! Pumpy climbing transitions to a short techy section which rewards with you jugs. Felt chill for the grade.
Jul 6, 2025
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