Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown ... TR 1983 or earlier
Page Views: 244 total · 8/month
Shared By: kenr on Apr 30, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start on right side of thin crack. Permitted to use the boulder to the right for footholds. Up the right side of the crack to the top, using few handholds to the left of the crack (especially not holds that would be used on the My Sweet Tooth route).

Variation (harder): Do not use the boulder to the right (something like 5.11b).

Warning: Rock is still breakable and loose, so belayer should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Thin crack near Right end of East face.

--> See on routes photo East <--

... also on routes Photo SE ...

Protection

Could set up anchor for Top-Rope with a static rope or long sling with directional from the two-bolt top anchor for My Sweet Tooth.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Previously TR'd in spring 1983 and September 2015. May 13, 2016
kenr
  5.10a
kenr  
  5.10a
Thanks, I changed the FA entry in response to that. May 21, 2016