Type: Boulder, 7 ft
FA: Troy Fauteux
Page Views: 305 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jake Perry on Apr 30, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Are you finding that you just have too much skin lately? Feeling like you want to clench your teeth from sharp holds? Want to test you pain tolerance? Then give this problem a try!

In the middle of the boulder, start sitting with your left hand on a friendly, but small sidepull crimp and right hand out on the obvious sidepull out right. Figure out the best spots you wanna the starting holds on and think hard about the feet you wanna use.

Squeeze hard, pull up, and make a crux throw to a 1/2 pad crimp. Dig as deep as you can to hold on through the pain and keep your core tight so your feet don't cut. Now using an option of slopers and divots (the jugs way to the right on Dragon's Back are sucker holds), work out how to get your way on to the slab. From here, press hard and pull the second crux, the top out. Run up to the top and check your skin. If you don't have any cuts you didn't do it right.

EDIT: Went back to this the other day and turns out the 1/2 pad crimp isn't all that sharp, you definitely don't want to be dry firing on it a bunch of times though.

Location

On the same boulder as Dragon's Back. This climbs to the left of Dragon's Back and to the right of The Dungeon (in between both of them).

Protection

2 pads.

Photos

- No Photos -