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Routes in San Ysidro (Upper)

Dinky Pinkies T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Gnome Fingers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Curt Dixon, Jeff Schloss - 1979
Page Views: 215 total, 11/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Apr 30, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thin face moves (sustained 5.10+) lead up and left, joining with Gnome Fingers where the crack exits the small roof.
A couple small stoppers offer some protection, but falling from the final moves before Gnome Fingers will produce a ground fall, dropping the leader on the rocks below.
Finish up Gnome Fingers.

Location

To the right and uphill from Gnome Fingers; directly beneath an old, hangerless bolt. Begin with both hands in the slanting crack, then move up and left.

Protection

Small stoppers for the start. Small cams and tcu's for Gnome Fingers.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
Poison Oak is all over this crag, and pulling the rope off Gnome Fingers will almost certainly drop your line right in it. That said, it can be avoided to an extent.
From the Gnome Fingers start, scramble down and around to avoid the clump and reach Dinky Pinkies.
The creek is currently running well so its possible to wash off on the way out. Apr 30, 2016
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Nice work, Alex. I tried to start the route years ago, but there was so much PO I couldn't justify the rope contamination. Is it manageable now? Apr 30, 2016
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
For leaders looking for a bit more challenge than the standard Gnome Fingers, this version makes things more interesting. Sequency moves over small stoppers lead to some make-or-break moves getting into the upper crack proper.
A clump of poison oak stands between the Gnome Fingers start and Dinky Pinkies; tread carefully. Apr 30, 2016