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Routes in The Headwall

Baraka T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just The Tip T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
L'Eroica S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Learning to Share S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Motivation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unpretentious Simplicity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter and Scott Nykerk
Page Views: 58 total · 3/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 30, 2016
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a super classic pitch.

Easy face climbing past three bolts leads to a series of two mantles protected by bolts before reaching a good-sized ledge below the stunning, overhanging headwall proper. Move right after the second mantel (5th bolt) to a crack that cuts through the face going up and left. Use a long sling on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag. Plug in a #1 Camalot to protect the first moves before clipping a couple of closely spaced bolts before firing straight up on great rock with beautiful holds and movement. Finish by angling left and doing a mantel into a little alcove and on to a ledge with a two bolt anchor (there is a second two-bolt anchor to the left).

Location

The center bolted line on the Headwall currently.

Protection

10 bolts and #1 Camalot which is somewhat optional. A strong climber could probably do without.

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