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Routes in Quagmire Area

Canadian Compromise T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fungus Razor T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Id, The Wizard of T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quagmire Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sodfancier's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kris Wild, Aaron Black (1998)
Page Views: 309 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Apr 29, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This route climbs the wide hand crack in a flare that offers some good, blue-collar jamming and thrutching through the business. The climbing to (and from) that feature is dirty and lackluster, but the main feature is as good as it looks from the ground (or as bad as it looks if you hate cupped hands).

Clip a bolt from the ground, then move through a lower 5th staircase for 20 feet or so, plugging a piece every now and then. Extend the pieces.

The main feature itself took pretty much exclusively bomber #3 Camalots. I had two, and shuffled them up as I went. While it's surely a grunt, the nature of the flare is quite secure.

After my sport climbing partner topped out after grunting and french freeing through the flare, his eyes bugged out of his head when I told him it was graded 10a in the guidebook. It'd probably be 5.9+ in Indian Creek though.

Location

On the main headwall of the Lower Malamute, between the Clean Crack and Crescent Crack areas, below the obvious epic 40m finger crack that splits the middle of the headwall (Quagmire). The main feature of Canadian Compromise can be seen by walking from the South. Start on a boulder below a bolt.

Protection

1 quickdraw, single rack from .5 to #2 C4s, 2 #3s.

If you're climbing this to get to Quagmire Crack, sling the tree at the top and keep climbing through easy but dirty and overgrown (in Spring 2016) ground to a kind of shitty hangerless chain anchor next to the base of Quagmire. You may want an extra #1 and #2 C4 for this section, and some slings to extend them. From this anchor the route is over 30m, maybe longer than 35m so be careful if you intend to rap from this anchor.

If you're just climbing the feature, sling the tree when you top out of the crack - this will likely match the guidebook's measure of 20m.

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