Mountain Project Logo

Routes in unsorted Clough State Park routes

Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: Jake Perry
Page Views: 153 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jake Perry on Apr 27, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A super sweet traverse problem that uses multiple boulders and a crazy roof. Double kneebars, toe hooks, heel hooks, and crosses oh my!

Start matched on the bottom of the roof with a double kneebar and little rock for feet. Traverse your way around using the roof and the next two boulders to eventually top out on the roof. The big boulder to the left of the roof is not used.

It might be a good idea to brush holds of before you climb on them as it can get pretty dusty in this cave.

This video is really helpful for understanding this route since not many problems out there use multiple boulders.

Location

From the gazebo, look left to the South End boulders. Find the pancake like boulder lying on top of some other boulders, that's where this is.

Protection

2 or 3 pads. A spotter would be nice for the topout.

Photos

Jake Perry
Concord, NH
 
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
 
Some may see this line as forced/unnatural due to it avoiding an easier (but more awkward) topout and not using the big boulder to the left of the roof, but I did the line this way because I knew it would climb the best. If you're really bothered by that then go ahead and climb it however you want, this is just the line I did.

If that doesn't bother you then this line climbs pretty classic and has some really unique moves I haven't done anywhere else yet. Apr 27, 2016