Type: Sport, 425 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 215 total · 7/month
Shared By: hightide on Apr 27, 2016
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Summer closures Details


P1 starts with easy face climbing up to a 15 foot polished crack and chimney. Belay from a ledge at the top of the chimney. 5.9 (40 meters)

P2 moves right onto a small dihedral and then right again across the face. Belay from obvious ledge. 5.6 (25 meters)

P3 two options, you can either move up the crack directly above the belay or you can head out to right onto the face where a second slightly easier crack is available. Belay from obvious ledge. 5.8 (25 meters)

P4 two options, you can either go up the crack directly above the belay that gradually becomes more thin and polished (this is the original route 5.10a). Alternatively, you can move right above the belay onto the slab for thin face climbing (5.10b variant). Both varients have the same 15 foot finish over a chimney. 5.10a (40 meters)

Rap down the route or climb the trail an additional 25 feet and walk off following the cairns to the Northeast to a short 30 meter rap.


Route is located on the southwest side of Calanque En Vau on the American Spur. Best access is by boat. Alternatively you can drive to Calanque En Vau and hike/rappel down the route.


Bolts, fixed anchors