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Routes in Painted Walls

Artful Dodger, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straights of Magellan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windjammer T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Grant Simmons, April 2016
Page Views: 327 total · 16/month
Shared By: Grant Simmons on Apr 26, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1: Devious climbing up the bolted corner. The first few bolts suffer from unfortunate rock quality, but the rock significantly improves in the second half where sneaky holds and thought-provoking moves make for fine climbing. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.11b.

Pitch 2: A pitch that would feel at home on the South Buttress of Whitehorse: fine rock and ticky-tacky face climbing. Move right across the ledge to gain the pocketed headwall and a thin, bolted traverse. Finish up the orange slab. 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.10d.

Single rope rappel to the ground (use caution with a 60m; it'll be close...).

Location

Locate the route at the toe of the central buttress. Begin immediately right of "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" at a bolted, right-facing corner.

Protection

A .5 camalot protects the exit of Pitch 1 and the entrance to Pitch 2.

Photos

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