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Routes in El Tonto

Lobo Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Piola, Hopfgartner, 1990
Page Views: 46 total, 2/month
Shared By: Neillong Feller on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

This route offers fun technical face climbing that is sustained until you pull over the lip onto the upper slab on P2. Probably not quite a 3 star route, if it was sustained all the way to the top it would be, but certainly worth doing if you've exhausted other options close to the refugio.

P1: Start at the north end of the east face next to a drop off on the right at a bolt. Thin face moves bring you up and left. The route goes left of the bulge and is 6b, but you can do a variation through the bulge at 6b+ called "Que me aguante el prusik (FA Teo, retrobolted)" that is quite good. After this bulge there is a 2 bolt anchor.

P2: head up jugs past 3 bolts (5+ or 6a I think) to the slab and walk up to the top to a bolted anchor.

Double 60m ropes reached the ground fine, I imagine 2 raps with a 60 would not be a problem but I cannot say for sure.

Protection

Mostly bolts, which is adequate but not generous, and some opportunities for gear, mostly small.

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