All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Volunteer Canyon > North Side > The Middle Ages
Edge of an Age
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||D.Mabe, P2: April 2016, P1: July 2017|
|Page Views:||927 total · 40/month|
|Shared By:||Darren Mabe on Apr 25, 2016|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionAt the heart of the North side is one of its proudest sectors, having the longest continuous stone. A prow is formed to the left of the Book of Wasps where a striking line of weakness wanders the whole length, featuring exposed position and sporty climbing sequences.
P1: Start from the pedestal right of the belay with thoughtful face climbing past 2 bolts and a couple of choice pieces of gear, trending right to a steep and broken corner system. Stem past a bolt, yarding lightly on the hollow flakes. Crank over the roof-block crux (5.11) and finish with jams and jugs up to the airy semi-hanging belay stance. Avoiding the hollow flakes makes for a somewhat burly 5.12 compression/flared-fingers move, though the bolt is at your chest. Pick your poison.
P2: Continue up the moderate corner with splitter fingers on the right. Traverse left onto the "tooth" and ride the fin with tricky pro. Power through the steep crux (5.12b), cop a quick rest, and fire another challenging set of moves with tight finger jamming and face crimps (5.11). The grade eases off slightly as you wrap back left and gun for the leaning fingers homestretch.
With devious cruxes, pumpy climbing, and a few tricky/specific pro placements, this would make for a proud onsight test for the grade. This is the first established 5.12 on the north side of the Canyon.
LocationThe Edge roughly marks the transition from the Tralfamador area and the Middle Ages. Locate the big fallen tree on the rim of the Tralfamadore Wall. On the far west side of the tree (at the root system) is the top out of the route. The route tops out on the west side of the prow, though set your rap line on the east side of the prow, where Turn the Page tops out. Aim for a notch and look for the fixed semi-hanging belay about 100 feet down from rim, and the start of the route a full 200 ft to a nice ledge with belay bolt.
ProtectionFor the top belay, I slung a knob on the boulder directly above the topout, tied back to a #.5 and #5 C4 anchor. The P2 belay is a semi-hanging stance consisting of a pin and fixed nut that can be backed up with finger sized cam or large stopper. P1 belay is nice ledge with single bolt.
Pitch 2: nuts micro-large, at least triples of finger sized pieces (#.3-.4 C4, #1-3 Metolius, or similar), a selection of micro-cams, and there are a few key options for larger cams #.5C4 up to #2C4. I found offset cams and nuts to be helpful for a few placements.
Pitch 1: micro nut, a few small cams, C4s #.5-1, #3 opt. 4 bolts.