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Routes in The Middle Ages

Arbalest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bertilak T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Book of Wasps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carnwennan Arete S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Edge of an Age T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gnarnian Renaissance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Knight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy in the Gulley T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Surviving The Times T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Trebuchet T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Turn the Page T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Handed Flail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Hawk T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: D.Mabe, P2: April 2016, P1: July 2017
Page Views: 1,081 total · 37/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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At the heart of the North side is one of its proudest sectors, having the longest continuous stone. A prow is formed to the left of the Book of Wasps where a striking line of weakness wanders the whole length. Edge of an Age features exposed position and sporty climbing sequences. The second pitch alone is 4 stars.

P1: Start from the pedestal right of the belay with thoughtful face climbing past 2 bolts and a couple of choice pieces of gear, trending right to a steep and broken corner system. Stem past a bolt, yarding lightly on the hollow flakes. Crank over the roof-block crux (5.11) and finish with jams and jugs up to the airy semi-hanging belay stance. Avoiding the hollow flakes makes for a somewhat burly 5.12 compression/flared-fingers move, though the bolt is at your chest. Pick your poison.

P2: Continue up the moderate corner with splitter fingers on the right. Traverse left onto the "tooth" and ride the fin with tricky pro. Power through the steep crux (5.12b), cop a quick rest, and fire another challenging set of moves with tight finger jamming and face crimps (5.11). The grade eases off slightly as you wrap back left and gun for the leaning fingers homestretch.

With devious cruxes, pumpy climbing, and a few tricky pro placements, this would make for a proud onsight test for the grade. This is the first established 5.12 on the north side of the Canyon.


The Edge roughly marks the transition from the Tralfamador area and the Middle Ages. Locate the big fallen tree on the rim of the Tralfamadore Wall. On the far west side of the tree (at the root system) is the top out of the route. The route tops out on the west side of the prow, though set your rap line on the east side of the prow, where Turn the Page tops out. Rap to a fixed semi-hanging belay about 100 feet down from rim, and the start of the route a full 200 ft  to a nice ledge with belay bolt.


For the top belay, I slung a knob on the boulder directly above the topout, tied back to a #.5 and #5 C4 anchor. The P2 belay is a semi-hanging stance consisting of a pin and fixed nut that can be backed up with finger sized cam or large stopper. P1 belay is nice ledge with single bolt.

Climbing rack:
Pitch 2: nuts micro-large, at least triples of finger sized pieces (#.3-.4 C4, #1-3 Metolius, or similar), a selection of micro-cams, and there are a few key options for larger cams #.5C4 up to #2C4.
Pitch 1: micro nut, a few small cams, C4s #.5-1, #3 opt. 4 bolts.


Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Big thanks to JJ Schlick and Wade Forrest for the support on my first lead attempt and Eric Deschamps for the belay on my redpoint.

I gotta recommend Lost Highway as a fitting and excellent option for a warm-up for this route. Apr 26, 2016
Eric D
Eric D   Gnarnia
An excellent route. Sporty trad climbing at it's best. Apr 26, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Add it to the list of classics! Nicely done Darren. Apr 27, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I added an approach pitch, and can now start from near the bottom of the canyon! Anyone dare to stretch the whole route in one epic 200ft lead? Jul 8, 2017

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