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Routes in Fourth Buttress

Ich Bin Ein Auslander S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pet Czech Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
SNAFU S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Craig Lewis
Page Views: 95 total, 5/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

This route has great moves, but hasn't seen much traffic and thus has some sandy holds. The moves use good rock, but there is some choss within reach, belayer beware.

The first two bolts can be clipped from on top of or just above the starting boulder. Make a long reach from undercling / sidepulls up to the 3rd bolt and continue up steep terrain to the 4th bolt. Don't stray too far left into the choss. Use two good crimps and a heel hook to reach up the face to a good stance at the 5th bolt. One more reachy sequence on crimps brings you to the final roof section.

Move right on decent holds to the 6th bolt and figure out the sequence to get a good left hand undercling. Power up hard to your choice of crimps in the next roof tier, keep the feet on and bump to a good hold in the hueco. More good holds to the left allow you to clip the hanging (old) draw on the last bolt and get a quick shake. Work left on juggy flakes and make a powerful move (a deadpoint if you are gassed) to a sidepull pinch. Then work your way to a high crimp for the tricky anchor clip.

This route is quite pumpy and is currently a little dirty, but the moves are great.

Location

Near the middle of the huge tiered roof. Walk around the back of the boulder ledge to reach an easy scramble up to the first bolt and long red sling on the second bolt.

Protection

7 bolts, and an anchor with chains and good biners. The long draw on the 2nd bolt is suspect and some of the bolts are more than a little rusty.

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