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East Buttress - Super Grey Pinnacle

5.10+, Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: T.Lewis & R.Shore 4/24/2016 GU
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Wheeler Crest > Grey Towers

Description

Tucked in a narrow gully behind the Cobblers Bench, the Super Grey Pinnacle is the largest monolithic tower on the Wheeler Crest. The first ascent of this formation was made over a 2-day period in marginal weather conditions, which included a rain-and-snow storm during the summit push. The route features superb slab and knobby face climbing, dirty cracks, and airy dike traverses protected by 1/4" bolts. 

Approach as for the Mayfield Canyon Towers, but go around the right side of Bedrock Tower and then up and left (south) into the gully behind. Scramble up into the gully on the right side of the Cobblers Bench formation. Alternatively, continue north up canyon from Bedrock tower and cut back left onto a bench atop the orange rock band leading to a notch at the base of the tower. Allow 3+ hours.

P1) From the toe of the buttress, climb a right-facing corner and move left above a huge bush, then head out the left end of a roof to a block belay on a big ledge. There is a rap station here on a tree. 5.8 50M.

P2) Face climbing past 6 bolts and one or two gear placements up and right to a hanging belay from gear in a right-leaning flake/crack. 5.10 40M.

P3) Pull two overlapping roofs on knobs and pass a bolt on a slab, then cruise up easy featured face to a 2 bolt-belay on a massive horizontal dike. 5.9 40M.

P4) Head up and left past a bolt, then make a long unprotected traverse left to a right facing corner system. Climb the cracks to a bolted belay next to an enormous detached orange block on a ledge. 5.8R 40M.

P5) 3 bolts protect the crux face above the belay, then gain the long right-facing corner system (big cam useful to start). Step left to a gear belay on blocks after the crack peters out. 5.10+ 50M.

P6) Continue up the right-facing corner system above passing an intermediate rap station on a tree. Near the end of the corner, traverse right on a big white dike to a gear belay at the base of a major left-facing corner. 5.8R 50M.

P7) Climb the long left-facing corner/flare past a couple nasty bushes to a large platform. Belay comfortably from gear or awkwardly use the bolted rap station on the face up and left. 5.9 50M.

P8) Scramble up and left towards a short slab and cracks leading to the summit. 5.5 30M.

Descent: 30M rappel from a block near the summit to 2 bolt-anchor at top of P7. 60M rappel from bolts to a tree mid P6. 60M rappel to bolted anchor atop P4. 60M rappel into gully between Super Grey and Cobblers Bench. Scramble and downclimb loose blocks and/or early season snow in the gully to a final 50M rappel from a tree atop P1.

Protection

2x cams tiny to 3", single 4" and a 5" or 6" piece. 2 x 60M ropes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

TL crossing the dike traverse (5.8R) on P6.
[Hide Photo] TL crossing the dike traverse (5.8R) on P6.
RS stance-banging, P4. Pic:T.Lewis
[Hide Photo] RS stance-banging, P4. Pic:T.Lewis
The Cobblers Bench and Super Grey Pinnacle with route marked in red.
[Hide Photo] The Cobblers Bench and Super Grey Pinnacle with route marked in red.
TL nearing the belay atop P5.
[Hide Photo] TL nearing the belay atop P5.
TL following P2 under sunny skies.
[Hide Photo] TL following P2 under sunny skies.
Photo topo. First 1.5 pitches are out of view.
[Hide Photo] Photo topo. First 1.5 pitches are out of view.
TL swinging hammer in the crux, P5.
[Hide Photo] TL swinging hammer in the crux, P5.
Tony on P4.
[Hide Photo] Tony on P4.
Cruising up the lower corner on P6.
[Hide Photo] Cruising up the lower corner on P6.
Richard at 4th pitch belay after leading sketchy traverse.
[Hide Photo] Richard at 4th pitch belay after leading sketchy traverse.
TL coming up the final corner on P7 as the weather makes a turn for the worse
[Hide Photo] TL coming up the final corner on P7 as the weather makes a turn for the worse

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Moser Moser
Lone Pine, CA
[Hide Comment] I heard Richard mumbling in his sleep, while lying on my floor. .." I hope Tony didn't see me step on the bolt... and I wonder if he new I had a talon hook in my pocket"

See the truth always comes out! Apr 26, 2016
Moser Moser
Lone Pine, CA
[Hide Comment]
Tony Lewis


Tony Lewis chiseling holds on the big project! Apr 26, 2016
Moser Moser
Lone Pine, CA
[Hide Comment]
Super duper


While Richard was mumbling on the floor and you where chiseling I snuck out and put up super duper grey 5.15rx paralleling. Ground up! Apr 26, 2016
Moser Moser
Lone Pine, CA
[Hide Comment]
The boys on the summit

So. This is really how it went down... They just didn't want to say I held the team together Apr 26, 2016
[Hide Comment] The climb reaches an amazing position up high on the crest. Climbing on second pitch is really good. Seems like rock on the face is quite good, but decomposing and fairly low quality in the systems and cracks. I would recommend the climb to those seeking an adventure, but not for those necessarily looking for high quality climbing.
Well done to Tony and Richard for piecing together a cool line up a wild face. Feb 6, 2018
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] i thought 'milkylala' had excellent rock quality.... Oct 30, 2019