East Buttress - Super Grey Pinnacle
Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Tony Lewis & Richard Shore 4/23-24/2016 GU|
|Page Views:||1,384 total · 66/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Apr 25, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionHidden from sight in a narrow gully behind the Cobblers Bench, the Super Grey Pinnacle is the largest monolithic tower on the Wheeler Crest. The first ascent of this formation was made over a 2-day period in marginal weather conditions, which included a rain-and-snow storm during the summit push. The route features superb slab and knobby face climbing, classic cracks, and airy dike traverses - all on immaculate rock. This climb ranks amongst the best I’ve done in the massif, and in my partners obscure grading system – 5 acorns.
Approach as for the Mayfield Canyon Towers, but go around the right side of Bedrock Tower and then up and left (south) into the gully behind. Scramble up into the gully on the right side of the Cobblers Bench formation. Alternatively, continue north up canyon from Bedrock tower and cut back left onto a bench atop the orange rock band leading to a notch at the base of the tower. Allow 3+ hours.
P1) From the toe of the buttress, climb a right-facing corner and move left above a huge bush, then head out the left end of a roof to a block belay on a big ledge. There is a rap station here on a tree. 5.8 50M.
P2) Fantastic face climbing past 6 bolts and one or two gear placements up and right to a hanging belay from gear in a right-leaning flake/crack. 5.10 40M.
P3) Pull two overlapping roofs on amazing knobs and pass a bolt on a slab, then cruise up easy featured face to a 2 bolt-belay on a massive horizontal dike. 5.9 40M.
P4) Head up and left past a bolt, then make a long unprotected traverse left to a right facing corner system. Climb the cracks to a bolted belay next to an enormous detached orange block on a ledge. 5.8R 40M.
P5) 3 bolts protect the crux face above the belay, then gain the long right-facing corner system (big cam useful to start). Step left to a gear belay on blocks after the crack peters out. 5.10+ 50M.
P6) Continue up the right-facing corner system above passing an intermediate rap station on a tree. Near the end of the corner, traverse right on a big white dike to a gear belay at the base of a major left-facing corner. 5.8R 50M.
P7) Climb the long left-facing corner/flare past a couple nasty bushes to a large platform. Belay comfortably from gear or awkwardly use the bolted rap station on the face up and left. 5.9 50M.
P8) Scramble up and left towards a short slab and cracks leading to the summit. 5.5 30M.
Descent: 30M rappel from a block near the summit to 2 bolt-anchor at top of P7. 60M rappel from bolts to a tree mid P6. 60M rappel to bolted anchor atop P4. 60M rappel into gully between Super Grey and Cobblers Bench. Scramble and downclimb loose blocks and/or early season snow in the gully to a final 50M rappel from a tree atop P1.