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Routes in Villain Wall

Catwoman's Claw S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirt Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harley Quinn Devotion S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
I'll Be Your Poison Ivy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mystique S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Penguin Walk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Strang, Susan Strang, Mike Phalin
Page Views: 203 total · 10/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

1st PITCH (80') - 5.11a
Start at the Dirt Day crack. Step up and clip a bolt a few feet right of the crack/seam then trend further right to a shallow hueco and some thin 5.11a/10d moves after the 3rd bolt. Continue following the bolt line past more small holds. The moves generally get easier as you move higher but the climbing is always fun and on great stone. Reach the chains at a small ledge/stance after about 10 bolts, there is a tree about 15 feet to the left. (10 bolts?)
2nd PITCH (70') - 5.10a/b
Move up left from the belay. Easy 5.10 moves clear the first bulge on small holds. Continue past a second easier bulge using cool big pocket jugs to a yellow face. Climb past the yellow face and easier terrain to a chain belay at another small ledge/stance. (7 bolts?)
3rd PITCH -
Unfinished and not cleaned- NO ANCHORS!!

Location

Start on Dirt Day, about 40 feet left of the main corner between Super Hero Wall and The Villian Wall. Follow the rust red bolt hangers.

Protection

Bolts and chain anchors with lowering biners

Photos

Chas Robles
Burque, NM
  5.10b
Chas Robles   Burque, NM
  5.10b
I would recommend doing this in one long pitch. It didn't add anything to the climb by breaking it up into 2 pitches. 7 days ago