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Troubled Seas

5.10c, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Allen Sanderson, JS, July 2015
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Glass Ocean & Environs

Description

You're likely to find two cruxes on this one, a rather devious, somewhat scary slabby face down low, and a more straight-forward, but more difficult face up high. Climb a short crack to a face with a seam that takes a really good micro-offset (e.g., HB), and find a 5.10 way around the blankness above to easier ground. Continue more or less straight up until it is possible to step slightly right to a bolt and puzzle out the moves for a body-length to a nice ledge and anchors.

Location

Walk left along the base of Glass Ocean past the bolted routes of Delta Y, Lord of the Long Arms, and Atlantis until able to cut back right along the ledge system serving as the walk-off for those routes. Look for an incipient seam above a prominent, somewhat horizontal crack about ten feet off the deck. If you continue to where the ledge system rears up into a corner, you've gone too far.

Protection

Take a set of micronuts (offsets preferable, HB works better than peanut), set of regular nuts, and a single set of cams to 3". Rap from Metolious rap anchors.