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Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse

Name: Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse
Rating: 4.0

5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British Mod. Snow

Routes in 1. North Faces (from Fairy Meadow)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adamant - North Ridge via Variation of Kaufman Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2 Mod. Snow
	Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
	Austerity - Std Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2 Steep Snow
	Cycle Mtn Meadow Rest Day T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Horn - SE Face and Unicorn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Houdini’s Needle "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Magog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mt Austerity - East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow
	N E Ridge of Pioneer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A1
	North Face Sentinel T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Steep Snow R
	North Peak of Colossal via East Couloir T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A1
	NW Ridge Quadrant with Rabbit Ears Arete (s) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Outpost to Spire Traverse/ Quadrant Spire T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+
	Pythias, Damon and Friendship Col T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
	Sentenel Peak - Shoofly Arete of North Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall") T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 PG13

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Type:	Trad, Snow, Alpine, 25 pitches, Grade IV
FA:	Leigh Andrews & Robert Kruszna Aug 1968
Page Views:	2,311 total · 24/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Apr 22, 2016
Admins:	Robert Hall, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

"Selkirks North" calls this "one of the finest high-level routes in the entire Selkirks".

I first did it in 1977 with Roy Preshaw and M-J Cross and then repeated it with Ron Factor, Tom Russler, and Steve Latham at the 1982(?) GMC Camp.

Reversed, Austerity>Turret>Adamant increases the grade to 5.6-5.7 due to the ascent of Turret.

Climb the left side of the Turret Glacier [Photo 1] until one can gain the North Ridge of Adamant. Climb to the ridge crest, thence to the summit. (Easy Class 5, much class 4 and 3) We climbed both times by the Variation to the Kaufman route: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/120503735/adamant-north-ridge-via-variation-of-kaufman-route

Descend to the west from Adamant (Easy Class 5 or short rappel) to the Adamant-Turret col. [photo 2]

Climb the beautiful snow arete to the summit of Turret. [photos 3, 4 & 5]

Rappel to the Turret-Austerity Col [photo 6]

Climb the East Ridge of Austerity (Class 4, easy 5) to the summit. [photos 7,8,9, &10]

Descend the Standard Route of Austerity back to the Granite glacier.