Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 25 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Leigh Andrews & Robert Kruszna Aug 1968
Page Views: 1,717 total · 28/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Apr 22, 2016
Admins: Robert Hall, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description

"Selkirks North" calls this "one of the finest high-level routes in the entire Selkirks".

I first did it in 1977 with Roy Preshaw and M-J Cross and then repeated it with Ron Factor, Tom Russler, and Steve Latham at the 1982(?) GMC Camp.

Reversed, Austerity>Turret>Adamant increases the grade to 5.6-5.7 due to the ascent of Turret.

Climb the left side of the Turret Glacier [Photo 1] until one can gain the North Ridge of Adamant. Climb to the ridge crest, thence to the summit. (Easy Class 5, much class 4 and 3) We climbed both times by the Variation to the Kaufman route: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/120503735/adamant-north-ridge-via-variation-of-kaufman-route

Descend to the west from Adamant (Easy Class 5 or short rappel) to the Adamant-Turret col. [photo 2]

Climb the beautiful snow arete to the summit of Turret. [photos 3, 4 & 5]

Rappel to the Turret-Austerity Col [photo 6]

Climb the East Ridge of Austerity (Class 4, easy 5) to the summit. [photos 7,8,9, &10]

Descend the Standard Route of Austerity back to the Granite glacier.

Protection

Std Rack, more towards the 2" - 3" sizes. Disposable slings (and maybe "disposable" nuts or pitons) for the Raps

Photos

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