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Routes in The Adamants

Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
East Peak of Gothics - "North East" Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Houdini Needle(s) "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mt Thor - East Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
N E Ridge of Pioneer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A1
NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A1
Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+
South Buttress, Adamant Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall") T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 PG13
West Buttress of the Horn T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mary-Jane Cross & Bob Hall Aug 1977
Page Views: 88 total · 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Apr 22, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Route#464 in "Selkirks North" by David P Jones

At the time (1977) this route was "incomplete" as it traversed right to the standard South Ridge of So. Quadrant, rather than finishing directly up the steep headwall.

It looks as if Atkins, Jones, & Seagram tackled this headwall in their 2003 route (#470) "Joie's Only" (5.10)

Approach as for the standard (South Ridge) route but veer to the left to the base of the South Face.
START: Up a 15ft wide depression that is about 50 ft right of the lowest point of the face.
Climb up the depression, belay on the left. (140 ft)
Continue up to a large block forming a cave. (125 ft)
Climb up the chickenheads for 30-40 ft, then step left to a crack. Belay in the crack about 20 ft higher.
Continue in the crack 15-20 ft, then step left again to a thinner crack, up this (A-1) to a belay at the top of a flake.
[ Today's longer ropes will reduce # of pitches]

At this point the FA party traversed right for a rope length, then continued right, and up, to join the regular south ridge route.

In 2003 Atkins, Jones, & Seagram climbed a different line (5.10) slightly to the right of the "Cross-Hall", then crossed our traverse-line and continued up the headwall "in a series of cracks and corners directly to the summit (5.8+)

Jones shows two other routes on this face to the left of the "Cross-Hall", plus many other routes further left on the West Face of the Main Peak of Quadrant.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

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