The Plastic Shaman
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Routes in The Sweat Lodge
|Ghost Dance S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Indian Giver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Medicine Wheel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Peace Pipe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Plastic Shaman, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Skin Walker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Sun Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Training Wheels S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Whiskey Drunk S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Type:||Sport, 55 ft|
|FA:||BJ Tilden, 2010|
|Page Views:||300 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Rangitsch on Apr 22, 2016|
road closed in Spring, depending on conditions Details
In fall of 2015, the forest service installed a gate that effectively closes access to the climbing in the Little Popo Agie canyon, including the Sweat Lodge, The Strawberry Roan, and Wolf Point. Spring run off creates a situation where vehicular traffic severely degrades the road. There are a couple of riparian areas that have been adversely effected by trucks and four wheelers. Local climbers and the Access Fund are working on a long term solution to this problem, but for the foreseeable future the road is closed. The forest service has assured us that the closure will only last as long as poor conditions persist.
DescriptionThe Plastic Shaman is the centerpiece of climbing in the Sweat Lodge. It starts on the second set of bolts from the right side of the steep wall.
Start by doing some big moves between positive pockets to the right of the first 2 bolts. The first crux (for me the most difficult) starts right after bolt 3. You lead right hand up to a "Spock" pocket and then bump left to a sloper and then to a small crimp. A high right foot aids you to move the right hand to a sloper pocket and then left goes to a positive crimp just to the right of bolt 4. Make a difficult clip here. Next you move up to a right hand crimp pocket and finally to a left hand letter box. You make one more move up to a horizontal pocket band that traverses the length of the flake. If you can, get a quick shake here, but none of the holds are any good. Clip bolt 5 from here.
From this point the redpoint crux ensues. Surf up to a good left hand lay back then to a right hand one. Next go up some gastons and finally deadpoint to a pretty good horn at the lip of the overhang. Don't blow it on the final headwall section.
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