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Routes in The Sweat Lodge
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Big Chief, Little Hat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ghost Dance S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Hoop Dance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Medicine Wheel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Peace Pipe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Plastic Shaman, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rocky Mountain Surprise S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Skin Walker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Training Wheels S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Whiskey Drunk S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Matt Wendling, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,579 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Rangitsch on Apr 22, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: road closed in Spring, depending on conditions
Details
In fall of 2015, the forest service installed a gate that effectively closes access to the climbing in the Little Popo Agie canyon, including the Sweat Lodge, The Strawberry Roan, and Wolf Point. Spring run off creates a situation where vehicular traffic severely degrades the road. There are a couple of riparian areas that have been adversely effected by trucks and four wheelers. Local climbers and the Access Fund are working on a long term solution to this problem, but for the foreseeable future the road is closed. The forest service has assured us that the closure will only last as long as poor conditions persist.
Description
Whiskey Drunk is the first route right of the arete that forms the entrance to the Sweat Lodge. It shares the first two bolts of the arete route. It follows a crack up a very steep wall, coming in from the right. You end up chimneying to the anchor at the top of the climb.
The route starts on long pulls between positive pockets and edges. There is a crux move pulling into the start of the crack. You next make strenuous lay back moves up the crack, eventually getting to a stem as you approach a huge chock stone on your left. The anchor is not visible from the ground as it is almost on top of the giant flake. The top is a bit run out, but if you are capable of climbing the bottom, it is not very hard.
The route starts on long pulls between positive pockets and edges. There is a crux move pulling into the start of the crack. You next make strenuous lay back moves up the crack, eventually getting to a stem as you approach a huge chock stone on your left. The anchor is not visible from the ground as it is almost on top of the giant flake. The top is a bit run out, but if you are capable of climbing the bottom, it is not very hard.
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