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Routes in Grey Towers

The Rattler - Cobblers Bench T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bighorn Beatdown - Big Grey Pinnacle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
East Buttress - Super Grey Pinnacle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Love Line - Lost Pink Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peregrine Pillar - Big Grey Pinnacle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weary Leader, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Natalie Brechtel & Richard Shore 4/19/16
Page Views: 185 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Apr 22, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Springtime up on the Wheeler Crest… Peregrines are pairing, Swifts are swooning, and Bighorn are breeding. Ah, amore.

Love Line is the first recorded route on Lost Pink Tower, tackling the most obvious weakness up its sunny Southeast Face. It seems hard to believe that this prominent tower hadn’t been climbed until 2016, but let’s face it – nobody comes up here. The route follows mostly moderate terrain with good protection on excellent orange granite, and a couple of mean-spirited bushes for the standard Wheeler ”character-building” experience.

Approach as for the Mayfield Canyon Towers, but go around the right side of Bedrock Tower and then up and left (south) into the gully behind. Pass the Cobblers Bench formation on your right. Allow 2.5 hours.

P1) From the left-most edge of the tower, follow a blocky ramp system up and right for a full ropelength to a gear or bush belay at the base of the major horizontal black dike. Mostly 4th class with a bit of easy class 5; we soloed. 5.5 60M.
P2) Up into the left-facing corner system above, then step right onto a nice ledge with a fixed pin/stopper belay. 30M 5.9+
P3) Step back left into the corner and bust a few moves until reaching a welcome #4 placement (5.10a R). Shimmy up the short chimney and past an overlap to another corner above. Step out right onto a huge bush and then up the easy OW to the crux – a steep black lieback flake. Easy terrain leads to a gear belay on top of a tree. 5.10+ 35M.
P4) Left-facing corner to a short face (left of the bush) leads to more moderate broken terrain and a huge belay platform on the left shoulder of the tower. 5.8 35M.
P5) Up and right following ramps and corners to your choice of two cracks which lead to the summit. 5.7 35M.

To descend, rappel the route with a single 70M rope. A piton & block anchor near the summit marks the first rap. Rappel off a few trees to reach the P2 piton/stopper anchor, then use one more tree to reach the ground.

Protection

2x cams tiny to 3", single 4" piece. 70M rope.

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