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Routes in Barrier Lake Walls

Friends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maya’s Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Wall, Devonshire-Cornell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 5 pitches
FA: I.Gordon and J.Steppan, June 2003
Page Views: 56 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Apr 20, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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This climb follows the major right-facing corner on the SE face of Barrier Lake Buttress. Generally it goes up the slab just left of the huge corner system. The crux is pulling onto and over a buldgy slab on the first pitch, then an airy traverse under the huge overhang on the last pitch and judging from the photocopies sent in it looks highly entertaining, along with a short scenic approach, and a end-of-day crank at The Republik, should be a very fine day out. Bring a single rack to 4” and a 60m rope.

Park at Barrier Lake Dam. Cross the dam and take the trail along the lake, continue past Jewel Pass until below the first of two walls (30 min. by bike). Stash bikes and bushwack and scramble up a loose gully below the climb until reaching the 2 trees at the corner’s base(30min.). The descent is down the climb from the same anchors. Four long 30m raps reach the ground or walk off heading north and around through the upper forest.

1.) Climb/scramble up water bowl until the base of the right-facing corner. Short 5.10(bolt) crux pull up on marginal holds gains good ground to the left of the corner. Thin slab moves towards the final steep section. Climb up right side of very loose arete to good ledge/bolt belay. (30m)

2.) Climb right and slightly up towards corner(2 bolts). Climb corner towards small bush; go left onto slab climb over small ledges to second bolted belay. (30m)

3.) Climb over small overhang and gain the bottom of the finger crack(5.8), go up the easy finger crack round the tree and over small ledges to gain a 2-bolt belay below the large overhang. (30m)

4.) Climb around first overhang on the right side close to the main corner. Continue up the main corner until below the huge overhang. Traverse left across slab below overhang on good holds(5.9). At the end of the overhang, climb up and right to gain main left facing corner. Climb over small ledges and exit cliff face to final 2-bolt and chain belay(25m).


Trad gear


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