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Routes in Schreyfels

Opakante S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 347 total, 18/month
Shared By: Climb Germany on Apr 20, 2016
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

Classic, simple multipitch great for beginners or "pleasure climbers" as they say in German. Many people you meet at the crag will be there to do this one route.

There are 3 pitches, each about 5.3 YDS or UIAA 3+. Each pitch has an excellent belay ledge to work from and is bolted usually with a single oversized glue-in. Expect locals to belay off a single glue-in with a munter.

There are 3 ways to start the first pitch, from 5.3 to about 5.5 to get to the first belay ledge. The right most is called "rampe" and is just that, a ramp. The middle variant heads abruptly to the left after the 2nd bolt.

Opakante is 3 pitches BUT due to rope drag and distance for communicating, it's easier to split the 1st pitch into two as locals often do.

In the first pitch, you'll quickly come to the first big ledge where you can walk around but not yet the official belay. Instead of continuing up, go ahead and bring up the follower and then climb to the official "first" station.

The first official belay station has a fixed rope and is very wide as there are multiple options for continuing. The center-right line of bolts which appears easiest has a chossy start and an overhang with few holds. It's got a few 5.8/9 moves and then back to easy. The correct version apparently is the furthest left line of bolts you reach "around the corner."

The third pitch is less than 90 degrees up a sort of gulley and ending with a fun and easy chimney climb to the top. There you'll belay the follower off the fence (more solid than it sounds).

Location

The climb begins at the end of the south face on the edge (Kante, hence the name) and follows the logical line up to several ledges. There is a big "bulge" of rock that comes out and marks the start of the climb. There are three ways to start it, either on the left, up the center or the right. All are about the same difficulty wise.

Protection

Bolted. no trad gear required

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