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Routes in Pep Boys Crag

Arturo's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dos Peros Negros T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertip Traverse Of Josh T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gas Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strain Gauge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yabo Phone Home T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yaborrhea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Alan Roberts, John Hayward
Page Views: 415 total, 21/month
Shared By: Sean on Apr 18, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start up past a right-slanting diagonal to gain a thin flake, then up along the right side of the latter, until arriving at the start of the right-slanting fingertip traverse. Good thin gear up til then. Some marginal thin gear across the traverse. Then a vertical handcrack to the top. Anchor bolts atop adjacent Two Guys On The Wrong Climb to climber's left, with slung beefy rap ring. FTOJ is on the north face of the northern most section of Pep Boys Crag, visible from the Playhouse/Cathouse pullout. (Note: the route as drawn in Joshua Tree West starts further to climber's right, to somehow gain an upper leftward arch marked by an unprotectable hairline seam over lichen covered coarse grains that looks untraveled, which connects only to the midpoint of the above described fingertip traverse, as in one would end up doing only the latter half of that traverse. Probably mis-drawn in book.)

Descent

Rap, or a roundabout walkoff down backside first and then toward the road.

Protection

Thin to 2", gear anchor or traverse to climber's left to rap anchor atop adjacent Two Guys On The Wrong Climb.

Photos

Matt Himmelstein
Orange, California
Matt Himmelstein   Orange, California
I will second the PG rating. I did the lower arch and there was good protection there, then I sunk in a solid cam at the corner, but could not get in anything solid on the diagonal traverse section (a 00 Met popped). I fell testing a placement at the next corner and hurt my foot on the big pendulum swing, so I didn't finish the route. The rating seemed fine, but the pro was not great. It was fun right up to when I whipped, however.

As for the left arch start, my '92 Vogel guidebook says "Climb up to and follow the left side of a short Gothic arch, Traverse right for its top, then go up." Nov 18, 2016
Sean
Oak Park, CA
 
Sean   Oak Park, CA
 
that sounds like the start of Two Guys On The Wrong Climb (5.10c) to adjacent left, as described in JT West: "Begin in an easy right-leaning arch left of FTOJ...." but yeah, either start would connect to the full fingertip traverse Apr 19, 2016
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
what about the left start in the arch lieback? Apr 19, 2016