Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pep Boys Crag

Arturo's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dos Peros Negros T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertip Traverse Of Josh T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gas Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strain Gauge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yabo Phone Home T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yaborrhea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Alan Roberts, John Hayward
Page Views: 531 total · 17/month
Shared By: Sean on Apr 18, 2016
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Start up past a right-slanting diagonal to gain a thin flake, then up along the right side of the latter, until arriving at the start of the right-slanting fingertip traverse. Good thin gear up til then. Some marginal thin gear across the traverse. Then a vertical handcrack to the top. Anchor bolts atop adjacent Two Guys On The Wrong Climb to climber's left. FTOJ is on the north face of the northern most section of Pep Boys Crag, visible from the Playhouse/Cathouse pullout. (Note: the route as drawn in Joshua Tree West starts further to climber's right, to somehow gain an upper leftward arch marked by an unprotectable hairline seam over lichen covered coarse grains that looks untraveled, which connects only to the midpoint of the above described fingertip traverse, as in one would end up doing only the latter half of that traverse. Probably mis-drawn in that 2006 book.)


Anchor bolts atop Two Guys On The Wrong Climb no longer equipped for rap, so a roundabout walkoff down backside first and then toward the road.


Thin to 2", gear anchor or traverse to climber's left to anchor bolts atop adjacent Two Guys On The Wrong Climb.


john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
what about the left start in the arch lieback? Apr 19, 2016
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
that sounds like the start of Two Guys On The Wrong Climb (5.10c) to adjacent left, as described in JT West: "Begin in an easy right-leaning arch left of FTOJ...." but yeah, either start would connect to the full fingertip traverse Apr 19, 2016
Matt Himmelstein
Orange, California
Matt Himmelstein   Orange, California
I will second the PG rating. I did the lower arch and there was good protection there, then I sunk in a solid cam at the corner, but could not get in anything solid on the diagonal traverse section (a 00 Met popped). I fell testing a placement at the next corner and hurt my foot on the big pendulum swing, so I didn't finish the route. The rating seemed fine, but the pro was not great. It was fun right up to when I whipped, however.

As for the left arch start, my '92 Vogel guidebook says "Climb up to and follow the left side of a short Gothic arch, Traverse right for its top, then go up." Nov 18, 2016
Matt Hagny
  5.8- PG13
Matt Hagny  
  5.8- PG13
There aren't any rap rings on the anchors, but it's easy to hike down off the backside. Oct 8, 2018
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
someone bootied the slung beefy rap ring? or removed as offending "convenience" rap rigging maybe. ok, have edited the route description to reflect those anchor bolts no longer equipped for rap Oct 8, 2018

More About Fingertip Traverse Of Josh