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Routes in The Cathedral

Arabesque S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Circle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Girl With Flaxen Hair S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Groove, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ikenseaor Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Seat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Cory Jones (?)
Page Views: 330 total, 17/month
Shared By: Scott Becker on Apr 18, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs the sweet headwall that hangs over the approach trail. Starts inside the Cathedral with a few bolts of crumbly sidepulls. Pull over a bulge to a good stem rest (shared start with the Iceman dihedral, aka: "Mossman"). From the stem, move left onto the headwall. Climb awesome pockets and edges up the slightly overhanging wall to the top.

Location

The first route on the right inside the Cathedral. Shares a start with Iceman and Rattlesnake Reality.

Protection

8 bolts. Rap hangers on top.

Photos

Scott Becker
Medford, Oregon
 
Scott Becker   Medford, Oregon
 
The guidebook suggests to clip the 5th bolt (2nd headwall bolt) by climbing up "Iceman" corner, leaning out to clip the bolt, then down climbing back to the rest stance before continuing with the route. I thought this might be old beta since there are old bolt holes that suggest the bolts may have in different spots before. But it's probably the best way to go since taking a fall onto the first headwall bolt pitches you out into space and has the rope rubbing in a scary way while you swing around. Plus it's a though-ass clip! But if 5.12- is well within your ability, be rad and clip that bolt at your knee as you onsight. The rest of us will need to employ the shenanigans. Anyway, go get on this rig. Some of the better moves to be had at the crag! Apr 26, 2016