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Routes in Mount Indefatigable

Joy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Joyless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Shining Path, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 2000 ft, 20 pitches, Grade III
FA: G.Cornell and T.Devonshire, July 2002
Page Views: 484 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Apr 18, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

From the folks at rockiesobscure.com!

Joy’s new neighbor! The Shining Path is about 100m longer and takes the slim corner in the middle of the big slab. The route is slightly more runout especially on the crux and the rock is much looser than Joy, again, much looser in spots, however it has been repeated a number of times since showing up on the scene. Take gear to 2″, pins, Tri-Cams, medium nuts and mandatory 60m ropes minimum. This route is more about the expansive vista of slab and the corner your on than what is worth of the climbing, however the 3 or 4 steep pitches after the 5.3 ramble is an incredible position.



Park at Upper Kananaskis Lakes North Interlakes lot and hike for a half hour along the old fireroad(keep right) to the end of the lake then slog up the scree slope to the base of the slab above the boulder field.

Start as for Joy, and scramble the first 100m of slab to a steep black streak on the left wall. Climb its’ far left side and a traverse right to belay (5.6, 25m) Belay at the last shrub out left after about 300m of 5.3/4 climbing. Go back out right and up the corner to a belay. Continue up the corner for 6 pitches to a big ledge with a 2-bolt belay. Go up a broken gully and make a rising sweep on horribly loose rock(The Leprosy Pitch) up to a tiny alcove with the last bolt. Traverse up and right to the ridge. Either take the ridge to the summit or downclimb 15m to a notch and down to the backside scree which meets Joy. Hike off via a ramp to the meadows.

What we lugged up The Shining Path: many pitons, nuts, Tri-Cams, small-medium cams and 7 slings is likely enough as it’s more runout than Joy. The route was started in about 1998 and we had gotten half way up the slab at that point but a summer bear closure over a few sporatic weeks in the season prevented anything further until Tony came on board and the grizzly vanished.

Location

see photos

Protection

many pitons, nuts, Tri-Cams, small-medium cams and 7 slings is likely enough as it’s more runout than Joy

Photos

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