Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft, 12 pitches|
|FA:||L. MacKay & C. Scott, 1965 F.F.A.: S. Parboosingh. N. Preshaw & R. Preshaw, 1989|
|Page Views:||74 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Gnyra on Apr 18, 2016|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
DescriptionFrom Chris Perry's Banff Rock:
The prow itself is a fine, natural line but the climb is spoilt somewhat by poor rock in the lower section and the long approach. A prominent feature, near the top, is a steep slab of gray rock undercut by overhangs. This “headwall” was originally climbed using aid but a free ascent has now been made.
Start about 100 m left of the prow below a wide, waterworn scoop. Scramble up for 25 m and belay.
1) 45 m, 5.7 Climb the scoop to a bay above a ledge. Move up with difficulty to a narrow ledge that leads left to shattered grooves. Climb these to easier ground above and continue up left to a poor belay.
2-3) 90 m Scramble up right to an edge, cross a wide gully and move up to a bowl on the left side of a lesser buttress, below and left of a prominent roof.
4-5) 90 m, 5.1 Climb the right side of the bowl and continue up a ridge to a large ledge running out right to the prow.
6) 25 m Walk right along the ledge and belay at a flake about 20 m before the prow.
7) 35 m, 5.5 Climb diagonally right to the prow and continue up this on good holds to a ledge.
8) 40 m, 5.8 Follow a groove system just right of the prow to a small ledge.
9) 45 m, 5.6 Gain an easy corner above and climb up to a stance on the far right side of the headwall, on the ridge crest (piton).
10) 30 m, 5.10b (or 5.7 and A2) Edge upward above the piton for 4 m until it is possible to step left onto a sloping slab (marginal protection). Move up to a fixed piton in a horizontal crack (old tension traverse). The piton may also be reached by following a thin crack to the left of the belay and using a few points of aid (original line). Move left from the piton either free or using tension to reach a vertical crack system that leads up to a wide slot in the upper band of overhangs (piton).
11) 40 m, 5.9 Struggle up out of the slot and follow a crack above until it is possible to move right on small holds onto clean slabs. Follow these up to a precariously balanced flake on the right.
12) 30 m, 5.4 Follow loose chimneys to the top.
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