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Routes in The Ship's prow

Broadside T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Bobby On-Sight WI4+ R
Shinning Path, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Ship's Prow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1700 ft, 20 pitches
FA: D.Marra and S.Elliot, summer 2001
Page Views: 126 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Apr 18, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

From the very well put together site Rockies Obscure

It seems, no matter what climbing area you turn to in any country, there is a route named the Shining Path. In the first edition of the Underground Guide to Kananaskis 2004, there is The Shining Path on the Mt.Indefitigable slab, coincidentally also well over 500m. So, here is another one – the Bow Valley’s! The Shining Path was a Peruvian terrorist group responsible for 20,000 deaths! This route was attempted years ago and left as a project. Still unclaimed, a different party gunned up to the base and had a go at this very obvious right-facing corner that seems to be perpetually running with water. Well, they succeeded; possibly the combined strengths of an alpinist and a sport climber. It did take them a long time however as they finished the last section in the dark with no torches.

The rock is said to be typical surrounding rock: good/bad/great/poor. The rack too is typical: many pins, no bolts, standard rack.There are a few different approaches, but the first ascentionists believe the el directo version up the drainage to be the best. It is a bit of a bushwack at first but opens higher up.To descend, take the easy scree slopes on the east side of the peak.

Climb up the main corner system passing the odd piece of fixed gear. More than half way up, the rock steepens and bad rock is had. Aid through this for a number of body lengths on dicey gear. Continue free climbing up until another short stretch of steep aid. Here, a huge rock finger protrudes out and back against the rock wall. Pass it, and move right then back into the corner. Continue up an out right until obvious steep, horrible rock is come upon. Go back left on slabs and multiple indistinct corners to the top. The last distance could be completed a number of ways.

In the posted photo, ‘A’ is the trad route Broadside, ‘B’ is The Shining Path, and ‘C’ is the ice route Little Bobby Onsight.

Location

See photo

Protection

Pins, rockies rack, alpine stuff, make sure you have everything you need and don't leave anything at the base. Doubles for a retreat if you aren't sure you're gonna get to the top and need to get down in a pinch

Photos

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