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Routes in Intensive Care Slab

CDFT Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intensive Care T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shock Trauma T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ralph Tingey & Rich Ream, 1965
Page Views: 462 total, 24/month
Shared By: thehackattacks on Apr 18, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The obvious dihedral crack system on the Intensive Care Wall. This quality yet forgotten Tingey route has lieback, undercling along with jamming and the rock is surprisingly good for how little traffic it receives. A bonus pitch is done by taking the rough chimney up through the roof system, although I found no set anchors at the top and just lowered off a tree.
And now, a message from the First Ascensionist:

"I climbed it with Rich Ream in 1965. When we were about half way up, a fellow in the archives parking lot yelled at us, "Come Down From There!" Hence the acronym. It might be on the Church property, so I never did go back or talk much about it. Rich Ream was our local friend and mentor. He moved to Jackson, Wyoming, with his family about 1964 and remained a wonderful friend until he passed away a few years ago. His son Dick Ream is a good friend and still lives in Wilson, WY."
-Ralph Tingey, 4/18/16

Location

Park where you would for Lizard Head or Altered States Gully (across from the Church Vault road) and approach as you would for the Fin. Once you leave the road and start up the trail, take an almost immediate left (look for a cairn off in the trees). This trail will parallel the church vault road and take you in a more direct path towards Intensive Care Wall and Gargoyle Wall. Pass under the Fin and up into the next gully. A large, gravelly opening means you're in the correct place, keep heading up and right.

Getting down: At the top of the route, there is a set of chain anchors. A 70 m rope reaches the next set of anchors (for two 5.10 bolted routes), which can put you right back to your packs.

Protection

A standard rack is more than enough. The initial crack can even accept a #4 or #5 in places. Plentiful use of runners will ensure the ability to run it in one pitch.
great route! any idea if the roof with the angling hand crack goes? anyone tried this variation?looks steep and protects well under the roof.. Sep 19, 2017