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Routes in Northwest Face

Dorian's Dilemma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fireballs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gitmo Love Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Case T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pioneer (Spike) Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Siege Tactics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smoke Signals T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Opdyke & Andrew Leiner, April 11 1999
Page Views: 303 total, 16/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Apr 17, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Smoke Signals is recorded as an unnamed route in the 4th Edition of the Portland Rock guide. It is listed as route #1 in the NW wall subsection of the Beacon Rock chapter and is shown as a single pitch climb adjacent to Stone Soup. Smoke Signals is actually 2 pitches long and shares its second pitch with Stone Soup as it predates the latter route by 6 years. Smoke Signals climbs very nicely for its grade and should become a solid addition to the Beacon must do tick list.

While most of Beacon Rock is closed to climbing annually from February until early July, the NW section of the rock remains open year round. This route is a great option for those looking for a multi-pitch adventure earlier in the season.

Pitch 1 30m - ascend large ledges and good holds to a wider left leaning crack. The first gear is about 20' up in this crack but the climbing is straight forward to this point. Continue as the route zig zags its way up the wall following a discontinuous crack system to a piton. If you take your time you can find offset nuts and small to medium cam placements on the way up to the pin. After clipping the pin and backing it up with a 1" cam in the slot just beside it, launch into the route's crux by moving up past another pin and exiting out left around a buttress. Once you turn the corner, look for good features and a few more gear placements which take you up a slab to the bolted anchor.

Pitch 2 32m - head up a weakness on the right of the anchors passing a small tree on its left side. Continue up the discontinuous crack finding good stances between reachy moves on good holds. Eventually work across a slab traverse below a small roof towards a bolt. Climb up towards a small tree passing it on the right side and then up on to the final crux head wall. The head wall has bolts, a pin and can take a couple of nuts if required. Plenty of gear can be found on this pitch and there is also a fair amount of fixed gear. A set of offset nuts will be very useful, especially the #7/gold size.

Descend by 2 rappels off bolted anchors or if desired one can merge into Stone Soup for 4 more pitches and climb to the summit trail and walk down. See the description for the Stone Soup free variation.

Location

Literally the easiest approach you'll ever do.

From the west end of the main Beacon parking area, walk towards the wall and then take the path leading into the woods adjacent to the water spigot. Walk 15 yards to the base of the wall.

Protection

0.1-3 Black Diamond Sizes
0.3, 0.4 & 0.5 Doubles
Regular Nut Set
Offset Nut Set with extra #7
12 x 60cm Runners
6 QDs

Photos

Andrew Leiner
Colorado
Andrew Leiner   Colorado
The first pitch starts to the left of the description, it's better protected, better climbing and you wont swing if fall... Jul 25, 2016