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Routes in Crystal Wall

Evaporation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, Nick Watts
Page Views: 136 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Apr 15, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

This is one of the best slab/face routes in the Bluffs. It takes a proud line right up the middle of the Crystal Wall and the 2nd pitch is pretty sustained at 10+/11-.

p1. 10c: The 1st pitch climbs the lower tier of rock, starting up a crack and then onto a slab past a couple of bolts. There is a decent runout to the anchors. This pitch an be avoided by scrambling around to the right

p2. 11a: This is the money pitch. Make a tough high-step move to get to the first bolt and then another difficult move pressing out left onto the slab. Run it out a little to a good ledge and clip the 2nd bolt. The crux of the route is probably the next 15 feet but the entire route keeps coming at you and doesn't relent until a cool mantle at the very top.

Location

smack dab in the middle of Crystal Wall

Protection

8 draws, plus an optional .75 camalot

Photos

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Tim Bonnell  
 
Colin - sorry about that omission, I've updated the FA field May 12, 2016
FA - Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, Nick Watts May 10, 2016

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