Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 453 total · 14/month
Shared By: MattH on Apr 15, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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The currently undone line of slopey crimps, sidepulls, and big moves. Start in the Umbrella Traverse holds about 3 ft right of Satan on a Halfshell on a pair of incuts below a big right-facing flake. There are a few edges that extend about 6' up from the start, then the ok holds run out and it's up to you to figure out how to use the microscopic flakes and slopey sidepulls to get to the topout.

The most probable sequence involves either a massive RH lockoff/LH bump sequence or a wild spring-loaded LH deadpoint to the crimp at the top of the seam (about a foot below the huge right-angled outcropping, where the seam goes from vertical to horizontal). From this hold, many options exist above for your right but the most obvious choice is to do a big dynamic move to the incredibly positive lip.


To the right of Satan on a Halfshell. There are a pair of deep incuts and a big right-facing flake that are pretty close to, if not the same as, the start holds for Satan on a Halfshell. There should be a sloping right-angling edge about 2' above/right of the flake and a flat crimp about 2' above that.


Pads. Perfectly flat landing.


- No Photos -
Went back to this yesterday after trying it a bit on a hot day last summer. Threw it on MP in hopes of getting people psyched again - the moves are cool, the holds are comfortable, and it couldn't be easier to pad up.

I'm still way too weak to do the big RH lock-off/LH bump, but it should definitely be doable by a better climber, especially in more favorable temps/humidity.

If you like big lockoffs with high, positive feet, this should be right up your alley. Think: a harder, mirrored version of Jaws ii's low crux with cooler exit moves. May 8, 2016
Does anyone happen to have photos of the start of this thing? I'm headed out to Rumney in a few weeks and I'd love to give it a try. Sep 21, 2018 · Temporary Report