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Slappin Skeeters

5.7, Sport,  Avg: 1.9 from 31 votes
FA: Shane Miller (1989)
Washington > Olympics & Paci… > Elwha River > Elwhall

Description

This route has a lower and an upper anchor, the lower one most commonly climbed to. The bottom part of the route also often remains dry when it rains whereas the upper slab get drenched. This area has been the first outdoor climbing experience for many peninsula climbers, it is easy but may be reachy for shorter people and kids. The climb initially climbs up and right, eventually traversing right under a small roof then heading up to the first anchor. Climb through a small slot up and left of the first anchor then follow the bolts up the slab then overhanging terrain to a ledge and the upper anchor to climber's left above your head as you stand.

Rebolted with SS glue-ins March 2018.

Protection

9 bolts and 2 chain anchors for the full route

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from afar
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On lead
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Matthew Peterson
Bremerton, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Only soloed up to first anchor. Probs more 5.0-5.4 up to the first anchor. Jun 1, 2019
Quincy aka Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Some feedback from a collection of climbers: So SANDY and hard! Going to the second anchor (which is not within view from the ground) is daunting for new leaders or those climbing at the grade. One of the groups I was with opted to only go to the first anchor. This didn't work well for a top roping group. When a climber falls off they swing and it is difficult to get back on route. Also, after getting to the anchor, reclipping the draws back in for directionals is also difficult to manage. If you have the TR set up on the second anchor this rope management isn't as much of a problem, but the sandy climbing up there isn't worth it. This is difficult 5.7 climbing for people not used to very sandy sandstone.

To reduce potential rope drag, I used 2 alpine draws on the bottom, and back cleaned the last draw before the first anchor. There is a short section before the first anchor that is easier than 5.7. After the first anchor it’s a sand bucket! The mantle at the top is really sandy! Bring a broom. Clipping the anchor is a little heady because of the sand and sloping ledge.

For anyone new to climbing on sandstone - the glue-in bolts are the newer bolts and are sturdier. If you see two bolts next to each other, use the glue-in. Bailing off the other bolts is putting your safety at higher risk. Sep 12, 2020
Steve Teufert
[Hide Comment] FA was Shane Miller in 1989 with pitons and lots of hope. Pretty sure he has PTSD because of that lead. Jun 1, 2021
Bigstick Clip
 
[Hide Comment] Frequently climbed to the first chains. Occasionally climbed to the top anchor. Aug 22, 2022
Jamie Yelland
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The upper anchor does not inspire much confidence. There is one SS glue-in with no attached hardware, and one rusty bolt with a quicklink. I rappelled off, but it'd be good to prioritize for an update if people are still regularly climbing all the way up. Jul 7, 2024