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Routes in Lower Gibraltar

Chimney Sweep T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Conundrum T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Left of Rapture S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Annie T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapture, The S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Warrior Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: 1978 - Curt Dixon, Warren Edgebert, Tom Adam
Page Views: 170 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tom Adam on Apr 12, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route was first done so long ago, and only after MUCH cleaning of debris from the chimney portion, so I don't know if it's still climbed/climbable. The route lies on the main wall immediately around the corner to the right of Lieback Annie. A few knobby face moves lead up and right to a right-leaning crack that goes from hands to fists to off-width, and then opens to a chimney for the last half of the the route.

Location

Immediately around the corner to the right of Lieback Annie. We spent the better part of a weekend hanging off ropes cleaning out rockfall debris and dead brush that filled the the chimney, and underneath all that mess found a pretty fun little route.

Protection

Not sure what pro you'd use these days, (we did this in pre-cam days) but gear from 1" to 4" should get you to the chimney. The chimney is pretty run out, as I recall, but not too hard.

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mbuntaine
Santa Barbara, CA
 
mbuntaine   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Cool route. We did this about nine months ago on lead, which makes for an interesting upper section. We cut the bay tree at that time and removed a bunch of dirt, but I'm sure it has grown back since. We took the crack feature trending up and right into the base of the chimney. Apr 13, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Tom,thank you for the contributions to Mountain Project--as if pioneering the routes was't enough!

This route was not very climbable for years and years, on account of a healthy Bay Tree which grew out of the crack about 1/2 way up. The Jesusita Fire took care of the tree and now the route is climbable again. It's a very worthy climb! Apr 12, 2016