Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 360 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Janes & Derek Janes, Nov 25th, 2015
Page Views: 96 total · 3/month
Shared By: Steve Janes on Apr 12, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Backcountry camping fees apply in some areas Details


Approach from Lower Meadow: Continue up "Main Glacier Gully", climbing numerous short (up to 25ft) steps of varying ice (up to WI3), rock, and snow, if formed, the route should be visible on the rock wall to climbers left, about 2/3's of the way up the gully. Many parties may choose to pitch out the ice steps in gully approach, but on the FA the party chose to solo the approach ice. (30-40 mins from Lower Meadow to base of route)

P1 40m (WI3) - Climb an initial 15m on lower angle snow ice. At 15-20m the angle steepens. Depending on conditions, equalize two short screws and continue up and left on thin, chandeliered ice, into a slightly left facing corner feature. Belay at obvious ice ledge in good ice behind the upper curtain. Protection was difficult to find on this pitch, with 10cm screws bottoming out on rock.

P2 20m (WI4) - From belay, step out and left to mount the fragile pillar. On FA this feature was just touching down on the belay ledge, roughly 25 inches in diameter at it's base, and deemed unprotectable. After some initially strenuous moves onto the over hanging pillar and a couple rock moves, continue up 5-8m of steep and fairly thin, but quality ice. At about 8-10m the ice thickens enough for good screws, and the angle decreases substantially. Continue up another 10m of low angle snow and ice to belay in good ice at the base of the final pitch.

P3 50m (WI3) - Climb an initial 10m step of good quality ice, to a snow slope. Continue up snow 10m, traversing left to the final 30m step of quality ice. Belay wherever possible once an escape becomes apparent either down and to the left, or up and to the right.

Descent: Either continue up rambling WI2 to the North Glacier and rap the gully. Or (as the FA party chose) hike down and left 150ish meters on snow and low angle ice, to use shrubs and trees to rap back to the Lower meadow. Rapping the route is not recommended due to thin ice and meandering nature.


Lots of stubby (10cm) ice screws. Knife blade pitons may be helpful.