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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 164 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Stefan Griebel on Apr 12, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas
Details
The Organ Mountains are in the Organ Mountains Desert Peaks National Monument which includes eight Wilderness Study Areas (WSAs). Placing new bolts, even if hand-drilled, is not allowed in WSAs. Please see section 1.6, D5, (g) at the BLM Manual 6330—Management of BLM Wilderness Study Areasblm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files… document for the policy regarding fixed anchors in WSAs. More about the Organ Mountain Desert Peaks National Monument, including maps showing the WSAs, can be found here.organmountains.org/wilderness/
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
Description
Start directly from the Low Horn #2/#1 saddle and climb to the top of Horn #1 in 1 pitch. This face looks steep and difficult, but turns out to be a one-move wonder. Or maybe two moves...
Climb up to the bulging face and try to get some gear at your feet. I soloed this, so I'm not sure how solid the gear would be here, and a fall from the bulge wouldn't be pretty.
Stand up and search around until you find some really nice finger pockets on the bulging face. The rock here is excellent and the necessary move up to a good horn will be apparent from this stance. Carefully work your feet up and grab the horn. (crux, 5.10 R)
From here, find more gear and angle right towards a fantastic multi-crack system on more solid, clean rock that rises to the summit. Some nicely protectable 5.7 or 5.8 to the top.
To descend, rap right over the route, or downclimb to the North.
Climb up to the bulging face and try to get some gear at your feet. I soloed this, so I'm not sure how solid the gear would be here, and a fall from the bulge wouldn't be pretty.
Stand up and search around until you find some really nice finger pockets on the bulging face. The rock here is excellent and the necessary move up to a good horn will be apparent from this stance. Carefully work your feet up and grab the horn. (crux, 5.10 R)
From here, find more gear and angle right towards a fantastic multi-crack system on more solid, clean rock that rises to the summit. Some nicely protectable 5.7 or 5.8 to the top.
To descend, rap right over the route, or downclimb to the North.
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