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Routes in Low Horn 1

North West Side T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
South Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 172 total · 5/month
Shared By: Stefan Griebel on Apr 12, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Start directly from the Low Horn #2/#1 saddle and climb to the top of Horn #1 in 1 pitch. This face looks steep and difficult, but turns out to be a one-move wonder. Or maybe two moves...

Climb up to the bulging face and try to get some gear at your feet. I soloed this, so I'm not sure how solid the gear would be here, and a fall from the bulge wouldn't be pretty.

Stand up and search around until you find some really nice finger pockets on the bulging face. The rock here is excellent and the necessary move up to a good horn will be apparent from this stance. Carefully work your feet up and grab the horn. (crux, 5.10 R)

From here, find more gear and angle right towards a fantastic multi-crack system on more solid, clean rock that rises to the summit. Some nicely protectable 5.7 or 5.8 to the top.

To descend, rap right over the route, or downclimb to the North.

Protection

A set of cams, finger sized to #2 Camalot, and a set of nuts. Maybe doubles in hand-sized cams.

As always in the Organs, bring new webbing and quicklinks or leaver-biners to replace whatever aging, sun-beat tat you find for anchors and raps.

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