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Routes in The Pharos

Lamplighter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Coming, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiral Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trojan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Reg Williams et al, 1965
Page Views: 92 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Apr 11, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Head up to the backside (south) of the Pharos. Locate the obvious right and upwards trending ramp below a big gray overhang. Start by stepping up some blocks to a ledge a few meters above the ground. Make easy moves along the ramp, under the overhang, then back left to belay on top of it.

Move upwards, clip the peg, then pull a tricky move to a ledge up and right. Continue in this same right-trending direction to an airy traverse. Protect where you can, swallow your pride, and make the move. But it's far from over. Move up into the chimney, completely change your style, and grunt your way upwards. Now below the obvious choss-filled chimney, build a belay.

Move up the outside of the chimney, sacrificing style for upwards progression. Scramble easily to the cave below the roof. As intimidating as it may be, it goes easily with your back against the wall and good gear in the crack. Face holds to the bolt anchor (behind you).

Descend with two 50m ropes or two rappels. Second anchor is 15m down on climber's left.

Location

Backside of the Pharos

Protection

Standard light rack (with 2-3" gear)

Photos

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