Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, 1965|
|Page Views:||161 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Apr 11, 2016|
Continue up into the delicious crack and into the impending overhang. Psyche yourself out, protect easily, then jam your way through the most unlikely moderate roof-crack traverse ever. The travails are short-lived, as you quickly find yourself at a small ledge, with a wall of knob-handles to monkey yourself up on. Do this, titter, pull an overhang, laugh stupidly, and belay at an amazing ledge perch.
From here, you can move left around the corner to the Saracen upwards ramble, or move right to the overhanging jug-tug "crack". Find yourself on another ledge and go up easily. You will eventually come to a short dihedral that requires a little attention, step left, then bust it to the big ledge above.
Rappel descent requires two 50m ropes. From the far right (east) corner of the summit, make a 30m and then a 50m rappel to the base of the wall. Otherwise, follow cairns to the tree-covered mesa behind the buttress, then make for the summit block of the Bluffs. Descend a narrow gully then down-climb (grade 4) to the Bluffs descent track.