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Routes in Dunes Buttress

Arab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandpiper T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, 1965
Page Views: 39 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Apr 11, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

Starting from between the two boulders at the base of the wall, move up along the left edge through the lichen-covered slab. When you hit the orange wall, face the conundrum of good protection versus preventing rope drag, then pull over the lip to the stance before the left-trending staircase-ramp. Move left, making easy but airy moves up and left, to a puzzling bolted anchor (what's the purpose?). Belay here for no apparent reason or keep moving up and left, over some loose chunks, to an orange corner and a spicy belay position.

Continue up into the delicious crack and into the impending overhang. Psyche yourself out, protect easily, then jam your way through the most unlikely moderate roof-crack traverse ever. The travails are short-lived, as you quickly find yourself at a small ledge, with a wall of knob-handles to monkey yourself up on. Do this, titter, pull an overhang, laugh stupidly, and belay at an amazing ledge perch.

From here, you can move left around the corner to the Saracen upwards ramble, or move right to the overhanging jug-tug "crack". Find yourself on another ledge and go up easily. You will eventually come to a short dihedral that requires a little attention, step left, then bust it to the big ledge above.

Rappel descent requires two 50m ropes. From the far right (east) corner of the summit, make a 30m and then a 50m rappel to the base of the wall. Otherwise, follow cairns to the tree-covered mesa behind the buttress, then make for the summit block of the Bluffs. Descend a narrow gully then down-climb (grade 4) to the Bluffs descent track.

Location

Middle of the buttress, the most obvious left-trending feature

Protection

Standard light rack, make sure you have the 2-3" gear

Photos

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