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Routes in The Pharos

Lamplighter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Coming, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiral Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trojan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 330 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Greg Lovejoy, Steve Craddock, 1963
Page Views: 51 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Apr 11, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

A true beginner's classic.

Start up the slab with intermittent placements, through a blocky section, passing a couple of ledges. Stay right near a vertical section, then back left along a crack to a big vegetated ledge. Belay in the corner. This is often described as two pitches, but it makes no sense to break it up.

Go up a deep blocky corner, past some bushes, to another huge ledge with boulders atop it. Continue up to a pedestal below a roof. Surmount this and then climb up big holds to a 3" crack then up further to another wide ledge with lots of chicken-heads in an amazing position. This is also described as two pitches...

From here, step across the chasm, climb up using the face and crack, then ramble from here to a belay of your choice near the summit cairn. This could also be combined with the previous "pitches" with some route drag.

Descent is via bolts on the opposite side of the summit block from the route. This is a popular rappel as it also services Lamplighter and all other routes coming up the Pharos. You can combine ropes and make a single 50m rappel to the ground, or make an initial 20m rappel to a set of bolts (rings) climber's left, then a final 30m rappel to the ground.

Location

The Pharos' north side, the obvious narrow slab between two wide, dark chimneys

Protection

Standard light rack

Photos

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