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Routes in Central Gully Wall

Mousetrap, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jimmy & Ronnie Marshall and Robert Anderson - NOV 1959
Page Views: 81 total · 3/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Apr 11, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description [Suggest Change]

A well protected route up the left side of the main front face of Central Gully Wall.

P1: Climb the groove then traverse left across slabby terrain to some cracks. Climb these up to a belay just below a steeper section and then main crack.

P2: Climb the crack (crux) and move up to a recess. Continue up on nice holds and jams to a good belay perch at some blocks.

P3: Step left and move up the steep flake corner. Pass a groove and then up cracks to a belay beneath an overlap.

P4: Follow the crack line up to a nice belay at the left side of a ledge with some heather growing on it.

P5: From here you can generally go as far as you want with the rope. Keep moving up and left and belay when the angle eases and you have a good anchor. After this it backs off to a scramble up to the summit plateau.

Walk-off left and around to Central Gully

Location [Suggest Change]

On the Central Gully Wall where the toe of the buttress comes down. King Rat is on the right side of this formation and starts back in a steep recess/corner. The Mousetrap is on the left side of the formation.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A trad rack to a #3 cam should do just fine. Plenty of long slings

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