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Routes in Central Gully Wall

Mousetrap, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jimmy & Ronnie Marshall and Robert Anderson - NOV 1959
Page Views: 61 total, 3/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Apr 11, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A well protected route up the left side of the main front face of Central Gully Wall.

P1: Climb the groove then traverse left across slabby terrain to some cracks. Climb these up to a belay just below a steeper section and then main crack.

P2: Climb the crack (crux) and move up to a recess. Continue up on nice holds and jams to a good belay perch at some blocks.

P3: Step left and move up the steep flake corner. Pass a groove and then up cracks to a belay beneath an overlap.

P4: Follow the crack line up to a nice belay at the left side of a ledge with some heather growing on it.

P5: From here you can generally go as far as you want with the rope. Keep moving up and left and belay when the angle eases and you have a good anchor. After this it backs off to a scramble up to the summit plateau.

Walk-off left and around to Central Gully

Location

On the Central Gully Wall where the toe of the buttress comes down. King Rat is on the right side of this formation and starts back in a steep recess/corner. The Mousetrap is on the left side of the formation.

Protection

A trad rack to a #3 cam should do just fine. Plenty of long slings

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