[Hide Comment] Very fun route, mostly follows a near vertical slab with one small undercling "mini roof" section. Starts 5.10+ from ground to 4th bolt, then a few delicate moves of V4 in vicinity of 5th bolt (tenuous clip), followed by a huge rest. Then follow the undercling to surmount the mini roof bulge. Top half is then 5.8 to a second crux at the last bolt, another few moves of ~V4 (with another tenuous clip) to the upper arete to finish at the anchors. I found the upper crux trickier than the lower.. Jun 8, 2017

[Hide Comment] This is a really good route that deserves more traffic. You'll figure out the route name when you get on it. Cash has a good description of the climbing, although I found the first crux significantly harder than the upper, I found it slightly harder than the crux on bust the move (in a very different style). The 5th clip really is tenuous hanging the draw, consider hanging your longest draw (I used 20cm) there for the RP to save pump on the right hand. Honestly the last clip isn't needed other than working the route, I skipped it even with a prehung draw, fall is long (you end just above the roof) but clean. Consider unclipping the first bolt for your belayers sake if you take this tactic.

Also a stick clip on the second bolt is nice for your first try on the route if the rock appears damp/sweating. The start is about 10+, but hard to read and if conditions are bad it feels a tad slick (friction comes up around 2-3rd bolt for the rest of the route even when the start appears damp). Jun 5, 2019

[Hide Comment] Excellent movement. Bolts are good for now. Deserves perma- draws. Sep 5, 2019

[Hide Comment] Consider stick clipping 2nd bolt. Aug 26, 2020

[Hide Comment] Not sure what the fuss is about on this route. "Ok" movement leads to contrived movement up top (you can literally sit down in the crack). Some of the holds are lose and the movement felt mostly finger tweaky. If you're looking for a classic in the grade try Lay of the Land or State of Perplexity. If you're looking for something to climb because those are taken then maybe try this. In regards to grade, if you avoid the giant obvious rest this might be 12a, otherwise it's easy 11+ IMO Jul 25, 2021

[Hide Comment] I kinda agree with Jeremy but this is probably the coldest climb in north bend in the middle of summer. The other 12as in the woods are harder. Nov 9, 2021

[Hide Comment] It seems like there are two ways that people do the upper part: (1) go left out to the arete before the last bolt or (2) go straight up to the last bolt and then out left to the arete. With option (1), the top half is easy -- there is no upper crux. I suspect these options are one cause for diverging opinions on 12a vs. 12b (or a/b). Jun 27, 2025