Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: 8/8/2003 Brian C., Chris W., Paul L.
Page Views: 314 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chad N on Apr 10, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

from R.J. Secor, Peaks Passes and Trails 3rd edition:

"Class 4-5 blocks up from the notch at the base of the arete end at the base of a large right-facing dihedral. Start up the dihedral, then step left to a finger crack that leads to a ledge. Climb the flaring cracks above the ledge to a crack that ends to the left of a left-facing dihedral. Go up and right via discontinuous cracks (5.10) to the right of a large overhanging block to a large ledge. Go up and left to a groove, followed by a short, steep pitch over the headwall and 300 feet of class 4 to the top."

Location

Approach: Hard, like grade IV hard. Hike up the ‘Lorenzo Route’ from Hamilton Lake into the bowl, or hike to Hamilton Falls, walk past the falls and up a few switchbacks. Leave the trail, head south, and bushwhack a bit through chinquapin. Then look for and follow a grassy narrow ledge/ramp up pass a tree until you're in the bottom of the bowl beneath Hamilton Towers. Cl 2/3 , In this bowl there are two water drainages, sometimes dried up near the end of season. Take the far right drainage up class 3 until your up in the right side of the bowl.

Continue up higher almost like your hiking to the ridge line that is Hamilton Towers, look for a notch/saddle with trees and scramble over it. Down climb the other side and descend a several hundred feet to the toe of the North Buttress of Hamilton Dome. The first lower crack ramp in the bowl is cl 5 chimneys that has been rapped before. 

Descent: After the summit, walk south, then left and zig zag down exposed cl 5 and out a sidewalk left to rap, to a blocky ledge, left then down again for two 60m raps. This is the older way to get off, pretty scary stuff. There is a newer and much better way off, see Subliminal Verses. May need to leave nuts/tat for raps.

Protection

Standard alpine rack. Doubles to #3 & nuts. No bolts, must build your own anchors. Emphasize on small cams and lots of nuts and long runners.

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