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Routes in Hamilton Dome

North Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Arete Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subliminal Verses, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: 8/8/2003 Brian Ciebez, Chris Walshimidt, Paul Larson
Page Views: 252 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chad N on Apr 10, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

from R.J. Secor, Peaks Passes and Trails 3rd edition:

"Class 4-5 blocks up from the notch at the base of the arete end at the base of a large right-facing dihedral. Start up the dihedral, then step left to a finger crack that leads to a ledge. Climb the flaring cracks above the ledge to a crack that ends to the left of a left-facing dihedral. Go up and right via discontinuous cracks (5.10) to the right of a large overhanging block to a large ledge. Go up and left to a groove, followed by a short, steep pitch over the headwall and 300 feet of class 4 to the top."

Location [Suggest Change]

Approach: Hike to Hamilton Falls, walk past the falls and up a few switchbacks. Leave the trail and bushwhack a bit through chinquapin. Then look for and follow a narrow ledge/ramp up class 2/3 until you're in the bottom of the bowl beneath Hamilton Towers. In this bowl there are two water drainages, sometimes dried up near the end of season. Take the far right drainage up class 3 until your up in the right side of the bowl. Continue up higher almost like your hiking to the ridge line that is Hamilton Towers, look for a notch/saddle with trees and scramble over it. Down climb the other side and descend a several hundred feet to the toe of the North Buttress of Hamilton Dome.
Descent: After the summit, walk south and down and left. Zig-zag down some class 2 until you can't walk anymore. Rappel. We did this in one 60m rappel but it could be 2 or 3 raps depending on how far down you can walk. May need to leave nuts/webbing for raps.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard alpine rack. Doubles to #3 & nuts. No bolts, must build your own anchors. Emphasize on small cams and lots of nuts and long runners.

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