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Junior's Farm
5.8+ PG13,
Sport, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.1 from 32
votes
FA: unknown
Washington
> Olympics & Paci…
> Olympic Nationa…
> Tyler Peak Crags
> Full Montey
Description
This is an eight-pitch alpine route with additional traverse or scramble pitches between Pitches 4 & 5, 5 & 6 and 7 & 8, then above Pitch 8 to the top. Grades are 5.6 to 5.8, with Pitches 1 and 6 being fairly stiff 5.8s. Ten or eleven clips on the longer pitches.
Pitch 1 is Bad-Tempered Prom Queen in the middle of the Mossness Wall. There is an easy but exposed top-out above the Pitch 1 anchor to the large grassy ledge at the base of Pitch 2. Use the fixed line but don’t trust any portion of it that you can’t see. Note: if you end up having to rap the route you cannot rap from the grassy ledge all the way to the ground with either a 60 or 70M rope. You will need to make 2 raps (use the TR anchors for any of the routes on the Mossness wall), rap with 2 ropes or fix a single 150' or longer rope for any of the anchors found on the grassy ledge above the first pitch.
A traverse between Pitches 4 and 5 is protected by a fixed rope that starts at the upper end of the ramp above Pitch 4. You can walk off from the top of Pitch 4 by descending the fixed line at the bottom of the ramp to climber's left, then proceed down past the Pixies and Yew Walls. Don't be mislead by the developers rope ascending directly ahead when at the anchor at the top of the 4th pitch (hopefully we will remove this soon)--move up and right to continue on the route or down and left to retreat/walk off at this point.
A rappell route from the bottom of Pitch 6 follows the base of the wall to climber's right, then turns down and angles a bit to the right as you face the mountain (five raps with a 60m rope; the 4th anchor from the top is somewhat hidden in a gully.) It’s also possible to walk off from the top of the multipitch as well, but not recommended in climbing shoes. Stay right through the timber and look for a rap anchor on a fir tree where the ground steepens. There’s another anchor where your rope runs out, then another two anchors in the narrow gully that turns right farther below. Use caution when pulling ropes in the gully as there’s a lot of loose rock.
Count on 6+ hours for the full ascent & descent. Hot in the summertime so best climbed early in the day. Communication between climber & belayer may be difficult on the upper pitches if it’s windy. Not a bad idea to bring radios.
Protection
QDs, Gear: BD.3-3 and nuts (if you don’t want to use the fixed lines).
[Hide Photo] Torn up fixed line between pitches 4 and 5. The rope is fixed on the bolts along the traverse, so a failure in this part wouldn't compromise the whole line and obviously the ground is mellow enough…
[Hide Photo] Simon standing on the scramble to pitch six (the bubbley pillow basalt behind him). pitch six is the crux in my opinion (only mentally harder than pitch one). It is also the highlight of the whole…
[Hide Comment] Note that there were never fixed lines between pitches 5 & 6. If you read the route description carefully you will note that there is supposed to be a fixed line between the top of pitch 4 and base of pitch 5. You will see this rope heading up and climbers right. If the rope is missing, clip the bolts the rope was fixed to. There shouldn't be anything nearing 80-foot runouts in this section unless you get off route.
As for top of pitch 5 to base of pitch 6, yes this is an unprotected scramble but isn't too hairy as far as alpine scrambles in the Olympics. However, I still remain roped up while going through this section and belay my second to the base of pitch six.
Also noted in my description is an escape route at the top of pitch 4. You will see a fixed rope climbers left from across a small flatish spot (the ramp) from the top of pitch 4 disappearing down a ramp. I've used it as a hand line both to get up to and down from this spot but you may consider rappelling down the rope then scrambling along the base of more cliffs to an exit near Tumblestone. Proceed skiers left back to the base of Mossness.
Dec 28, 2018
[Hide Comment] This was my first exposure to multi-pitch climbing and boy was this an awesome route to start on! We only made 4/8 pitches as we were a team of 3, and the lads in my group were spending time walking me through a lot of the mechanics of multi-pitch.
Plenty of pine needles/moss/dirt on quite a bit of the rock in places. There are a few trees that you have to contend with on the first pitch going up. Speaking of the first pitch, it's a STIFF 5.8. Our first lead made 70% of the route (with a big pack on) before he was just too pumped and had to be lowered. The first pitch also has what appears to be an anchor about 80% of the way up the route as there are two chains and a ledge. However, keep going. You eventually top out at an enormous ledge that has a fixed rope leading up to the 2nd pitch.
Pitches 2, 3, and 4 are a breeze! I lead my first pitch ever on pitch 3 and had a blast. Super fun route with amazing scenery. All of the bolts/chains looked nearly brand new.
May 14, 2020
[Hide Comment] If you're not comfy with (mild) runouts between pitches, for sure bring medium to smaller nuts and cams. My second time on this route, i placed more nuts and a .4 and .5 at least 3 times. Might even help to have a few bigger cams in a few parts. but if you're a badass alpine climber not like myself, then this should be easy as hell. the bolts are very close together and all the pitches are protected very well. quite fun climb, can't wait until there are more routes up this thing.
Jun 8, 2020
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route on 20 July, and would advocate for adding the traverses between 4/5 and 5/6 into the pitch count. It simply makes most sense to pitch out both of these traverses in order to not mess with coiling and uncoiling ropes. I describe the first traverse as 30m, 4th class (with the fixed line); and the second traverse as 35m, 3rd class. This would change it to a 10-pitch route, with the second crux at pitch 8. That's my 2 cents.
The rappel descent description could be improved too - from the (MP) Pitch 6 rappel, I went too far right on the next rappel, and too far left on the rappel after that. We sorted it out though, and I'm sure with more traffic the lines will be more obvious.
My full, blow by blow beta (including my version of the pitch count and a rough topo of the rappels) can be found here: simmonsmountain.works/notebook/2020/7/22/juniors-farm
Jul 22, 2020
[Hide Comment] Great, well-bolted route! No need for bringing gear if you are comfortable on class 3 scrambles. Can combine P4 with the traverse between P4/P5 and clip draws into the bolts used for the fixed line. There are two bolts on the class 3 traverse between P5 and P6 that you can clip, otherwise it is very casual. The first pitch was definitely the hardest and did not feel 5.8. Rapping was relatively straight forward: did it in 7 raps. Rap the climb until the bottom of P6, then from rings at the bottom of P6 rap climbers right following the corner of the wall until hitting rings. Then follow the rap line down. The 3rd ring after P6 is in a gully farther right than I went so had to swing over.
After completely the climb, do people scramble up to the summit a few hundred feet above the end? Went up 3/4 of the way, but stopped as it got a bit more exposed and lower 5th class. Very doable, but we were tired and and didnt want to down climb it. Looks like other people make it up there from the old tat and erosion.
Aug 27, 2020
[Hide Comment] Fun route. We did it no problem in 7 pitches with 70 meter rope, which is maybe only needed on the topo I posted as pitch 5, but otherwise a 60 is fine.
Sep 24, 2020
[Hide Comment] Came back to fully finish this route after only making it up through Pitch 4 last time. Previously it was my first multi-pitch, and since then I've learned quite a bit and have a couple of notes. Led the whole route this time.
I stand by the fact that Pitch 1 is a sandbagged 5.8. Personally, I'd rate it 5.9+/10a. Not only are some of the moves pretty tricky on slopey holds with steep/bulgy climbing, but it's fairly sustained. I found myself pumped out and took a fall midway through. I'd say usually I'm a mid/high 10s climber. The only reason I say this is because it'd suck for the budding 5.9/10a leader to come here and expect to cruise up this route. The climbing SIGNIFICANTLY eases up after this pitch, so at least you've got the tough stuff at the bottom.
Ascent:
The scramble between P5 and P6 does NOT go left. It goes straight up from the P5 anchor up and over some loose rocks/medium sized boulders. You might be tempted to go climber's left as you start as you'll see a fixed line and bolts, but DO NOT DO THIS. We lost quite a bit of time dicking around here. Review the topo.
P6 is the absolutely money pitch of the climb. Steep, exposed, bulgy climbing on positive holds with mostly solid rock. Absolute blast -- it's in a whole different category than any other pitch on the route.
Link P6 and P7. You can bypass a hanging belay. P7 is only 5 bolts, I believe. There are plenty of bolts you can skip on P6 if you didn't bring enough draws. I skipped 3 and it was very comfortable.
P8 seems to have two different anchors. I elected to keep going to the second one as I saw bolts continuing up. If I was doing it again, I wouldn't have. There isn't anything particularly special up at the top, and it makes the rappel quite a bit more awkward. If you want to continue up the 400+ feet of scrambling to reach the true summit, obviously go to the 2nd anchor. We didn't do the ending scramble.
I brought .3 - 3 and some nuts. I wouldn't bring gear again. It's totally unnecessary and mostly just sat on my harness the entire time. Placed two pieces on the P5 - P6 traverse, but that was purely for my follower's comfort.
Descent:
It's already been beaten to death, but at the bottom of P6 go climber's right following the wall to find the rap station that starts the rap route.
Grant Adams in the comments has some great descent beta, particularly: "The 3rd ring after P6 is in a gully farther right than I went so had to swing over." I did the same thing he did. Find the narrow, obvious gully to the climber's right. It's a longer rappel and the anchors are hidden. We had a 70m and only had a couple of meters left when we hit the anchor.
Overall, I really like this route. It's adventure-y climbing (dirty, mossy, chossy, in places) but it's also got a couple of really solid rock pitches and it's in a beautiful setting where you're very likely to be the only people on route.
Oh, and I have no idea why this is given a PG-13. Don’t let that keep you from climbing it.
May 17, 2021
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know anything about the climbing/scrambling after the route finishes? It seems like this route could go on and on. It’s still 1.2 miles to Tyler Peak from where the route finishes. It’d be cool to have this route go all the way to the summit or can you just scramble there and avoid 5th class after the route ends? It certainly looks like there could be more pitches added onto this route, if desired.
Jul 5, 2021
[Hide Comment] @Kyle O. I have thought about adventuring beyond the existing top to the route many times and have just not pulled the trigger yet. I would probably want to bring a roto hammer, some bolts and some trad gear if I were to do it, but I agree it does seem logical and doable though may not add a lot to the climb itself. Let me know if you decide to push to the top. I likely can't give it a try until next summer.
Jul 5, 2021
[Hide Comment] @Scott Underwood. I'll let you know the results if I decide to embark on that adventure (trad style). If you ever want to do it and need a partner need summer or help bolting, let me know.
Jul 7, 2021
[Hide Comment] A couple lessons learned from this climb: 1. Verify beta, 2. Don't provide beta you aren't sure about, 3. The MP app doesn't show all comments...
After reading reports on the MP app and finding some more stuff online we planned to bag the summit after finishing this climb- hiking reports said there's a trail from the top. We knew there would be some unprotected scrambling but figured we could manage given that one comment said the true summit was about 400ft above the final pitch. As mentioned in a comment I just found on the MP website, it's over a mile to the summit as the crow flies, and about another 2000ft of elevation. We probably should have pieced together the difference between the summit elevation and the climb, so that's on us.
It's doable, but don't try it if you're not up for low 5th scrambling, bushwacking, and getting lost for a bit. We eventually found a goat trail that got us up to the ridge line and true summit, but it took some lucky guesses and a couple hours of poking around to get somewhere we were confident would go.
Aside from that, the climb was rad, and there are some sick walls above the climb that need to be sent.
Jul 10, 2021
[Hide Comment] Kyle & Scott, I explored a bit above the top of Junior's in Oct 2018. The class 3/4 scramble straight up from the top of the route will lead to the upper walls. Alternatively, from the bottom you can take the climbers' trail to the left of the Mossness wall up past the entire climbing area (i.e., past the access ramps to Crowded West Wall etc) and eventually another steep dirt ramp heads up to the right. This ramp has interesting walls on its left side and leads to the upper walls via a series of grassy slopes & ledges. Nothing too sketchy, mostly walking with a little easy scrambling, all fairly steep and still a long, long way below the true summit of Tyler. Some cool stuff to be found but it would be an enormous amount of work to haul ropes, bolting gear & hardware up there for further route development. Somebody with more ambition than me should check it out though!
Jul 12, 2021
[Hide Comment] Thanks a bunch for all of the time, effort, and money put into this route John! Climbed it in 6 hours on 7/28/21. Linked p5 + scramble between p5 & p6, and p6, p7, + scramble between p7 & p8 with 70m. Don't think you could do those links with a 60. Would also be easy to link p4 + scramble between p4 & p5. All fixed lines and bolts/anchors were in great shape. Was also really pleasantly surprised with the rock quality.
Thought the scrambles were mellow and didn't need gear. My follower agreed.
Keep in mind this route is in the sun all day. It was only 75 when we did it but was still fairly hot, probably wouldn't want to do it on any hotter day.
Jul 31, 2021
[Hide Comment] Wow, great climb, much thanks to the people (person?) who put this up! I will likely say more of the same as everyone else.
Was not obvious where to find the crag, but someone in the crag notes left accurate coordinates ( before finding the coordinates we had driven up and down the road looking for a boulder field, we found one that matched the description but the coordinates we found after were great confirmation). Next time I would just get the coordinates and drive straight to the way point. We drove the night before and camped, and in the night we just camped at the roads end, google called it Tylar peak trailhead. The Trail is hilariously faint, mostly not visible from road. We were the first to arrive so no cars to hint us. It’s a pretty forest crag!
First pitch felt like a 5.10a, was pumpy, holds were consistently not as good as they’d look, definitely crux of the route. If you get up first pitch your fine for the rest. The pitch really woke me up! We also had trouble identifying which bolt line was the first pitch to the multi, maybe because we failed to download the images from mt proj separate to the text? we had no images to go off of and text was minimal (and ZERO Wi-Fi after you leave the Sequim area). We knew the starting pitch was five lines over, but it seems that five lines over was an overhanging route and that didn’t seem right. We finally found each routes chains and used their recorded heights to realize the one we wanted was “four lines over” and therefore there was a hidden climb around the corner on the climbers right to explain why it was climb #5 on mt proj.
Anywho, first pitch has a few anchor options, we skipped the first and opted for second, later we wondered if our 70 m rope could reach to what seemed to be a rap anchor at the bottom of the 2nd pitch without drag, not sure. Second pitch was interesting, pitch 3/4 seemed linkable with our 70 m rope but our 14 draws were not nearly enough to link. Both were super easy. I brought trad gear for scrambles and felt silly, never touched, the scrambles felt very very doable. Fixed lines were great but the second fixed rope between pitch 4 and 5 seemed tattered and has a core shot , I will try to attach photo. p5,6,7 were the star pitches (with p6/7 being linkable with around 17 draws?)— big, interesting features, p6 was a bit exposed and over hung but def appropriately 5.8 (unlike first pitch lol)
p8 had interesting start, first set of chains is good for stopping and going straight down to manage time, second set of anchors was flat and allowed you to keep scrambling up. As said elsewhere, you can keep scrambling for quite a while if you brought good approach shoes and had the time! We went up a ways and was interested but ultimately had to go. We chose to rap p 8 in two parts, but prob would have been better to down climb to the lower p8 anchors. It seems like there were too many opportunities for rope to get stuck to just pull down the rope from bottom of p8 if you rapped from true top. Down scrambling wasn’t bad, but it was a bit akward getting onto the p7 hanging belay, we just clipped a QuickDraw as handhold. W/ our 70 m we rapped both p7&6 in one rap and then continued down the rap route.
We struggled to find the anchors of rap route. First anchor is slightly below p6, then you need to stay on the base of the mountain to find next one, then you go down on climbers left towards the more solid rock, then you need to head climbers right to the narrow (green it seemed) gully, the next one takes you to a huge meadowy ledge and just keep going to the edge of it will find the last one. Last rap is down into trees and bushes.
Overall cool adventure route, not super difficult, kept us busy! It was kindly bolted (but not over bolted) in my opinion. from the bottom, many of the bolts are hidden so it certainly looks runout. It was less straightforward than some of the shorter multi pitches I had done before. Satisfied overall.
Jul 3, 2022
[Hide Comment] Could link P1+P2, and P3+P4 with 70m and extending/skipping the anchor clip. could have maybe even linked on the short 4th class traverse ("p5) after P4 with the fixed line.
Fixed line on first traverse was shot between last 2 bolts... (But nice ledge there)
Linked the next pitch (p5 or "P6" if counting traverses) with the following scramble (3rd class) to skip hanging belay. This scramble was unprotected and with loose death boulders... tread with caution. 70m reached bottom of p6 (or P8 if counting scrambles)..
P1 5.8+ ~40m (pass 2 sets of anchors to ledge) P2 5.7 (starts to right of top of P1, ends at ledge) P3 5.6 (starts to right of top of P2 at ledge/Chock stone) P4 low/mid 5th Short easy exposed traverse fixed line to right. P5 ("p6") low/mid 5th scramble (loose ridge-like) P6 ("P8") 5.8 "pillow talk pitch" Didn't do P7/P8 ("P9/P10"), but previous beta suggestion linking p6+P7 to avoid hanging belay.
We bailed here. Rapped down gully climbers right (as per previous beta)- got peppered with lots of loose gravel when rapping/pulling ropes, but avoided some death rocks.
3 minute walk skiers right back to base of route.. maybe try switch backing to avoid steepness/erosion.
Neat unique bolted adventure climb in remote area that has some loose rock, great belay ledges, good views, gets sun most of day, good free camping nearby. Gratitude to the developers.
Aug 9, 2022
[Hide Comment] Did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. Having never really climbed in the Olympics I didn't know what to expect in terms of rock quality, but it was really fun and interesting climbing. Pitch 1 and 6 were definitely the highlights with some funky and varied moves. All the belays are nice two bolt sets ups with chains and rings making anchor building super easy. The location is very pretty and the approach hike being less than 5 minutes is a plus.
We brought four cams (.3 - .75) and a set of nuts, they seemed entirely unnecessary. We did pitch out the traverses but the more exposed scrambling has bolts on the hand line you can clip and the unprotected sections are very easy and not terribly exposed. I would not rate this climb as PG13 nor would I bring the recommended pro of cams from 0.3 - 3 and nuts, that seems like overkill.
In regards to the descent I would highly recommend a 70 meter rope, we brought a 60 and to get back to the base of pitch 6 you have to do a rappel from a hanging position that doesn't fit two people very well. I think a 70 meter would avoid this issue and save a lot of time. We followed Chris' rappel write up on his page (link in his comment), which we found spot on, and it was useful to have the rappel topo saved on our phone. With a 60 meter rope you just barely reach some of the anchors specifically what Chris calls rappels 5 to 6 and 6 to 7 and you won't really see anchor 6 until you are on it. Basically you just have to keep going to the end of your rope and trust you'll find the anchor.
All in all a worthwhile excursion to the Olympics, thanks for establishing this route and putting your time and money into it.
Sep 11, 2022
[Hide Comment] Thanks Ariel, Aaron & Rob for beta on the shot section of fixed rope on the traverse between pitches 4 & 5. Replaced it today.
Oct 1, 2022
[Hide Comment] Did the route on a beautiful warm fall day. My partner and I found the ascent to be as described and enjoyable. We clipped alpine draws for the traverses, though they are not counted as pitches in my descriptions pitch count. Traverse from 5 to 6 is straight up over boulders from pitch 5’s anchor. The anchor is located on a boulder under the interesting bulbous rock wall.
For the rappels, we had a 70 M. As others have said, you can rap with a 60M , but when we were struggling to find the anchors we were glad for the extra length, just for moral support. To start the rap route at the bottom of pitch 6, find the narrow gully on the FAR climbers right off the rappel anchor. If your body isn’t touching the wall, you’re not far right enough. The rap anchors are located under a small tree in the gully. Next anchors are directly below in the rocky gully, as per Chris’ beta which we found the most accurate. Next rap anchors are climbers right, look over the rocky spine for the blue green gully. The anchors are located beneath a band of blue green rock that makes up the wall of the gully. Final rap anchors of the descent are on a rock directly below the end of the blue green gully, these ones get you to the ground. Prepare for gardening and loose rocks. Not including the top rappels, from the bottom of pitch 6, 4 rappels get you on the trail which is steep, slippery dirt. Trees/shrubs near rap anchors have a bit of remaining ribbon. We didn’t see it until we were already on or near the anchors. If anyone’s going up early next spring it would be nice to get those replaced.
Oct 15, 2022
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As for top of pitch 5 to base of pitch 6, yes this is an unprotected scramble but isn't too hairy as far as alpine scrambles in the Olympics. However, I still remain roped up while going through this section and belay my second to the base of pitch six.
Also noted in my description is an escape route at the top of pitch 4. You will see a fixed rope climbers left from across a small flatish spot (the ramp) from the top of pitch 4 disappearing down a ramp. I've used it as a hand line both to get up to and down from this spot but you may consider rappelling down the rope then scrambling along the base of more cliffs to an exit near Tumblestone. Proceed skiers left back to the base of Mossness. Dec 28, 2018
Phoenix, AZ
Plenty of pine needles/moss/dirt on quite a bit of the rock in places. There are a few trees that you have to contend with on the first pitch going up. Speaking of the first pitch, it's a STIFF 5.8. Our first lead made 70% of the route (with a big pack on) before he was just too pumped and had to be lowered. The first pitch also has what appears to be an anchor about 80% of the way up the route as there are two chains and a ledge. However, keep going. You eventually top out at an enormous ledge that has a fixed rope leading up to the 2nd pitch.
Pitches 2, 3, and 4 are a breeze! I lead my first pitch ever on pitch 3 and had a blast. Super fun route with amazing scenery. All of the bolts/chains looked nearly brand new. May 14, 2020
Poulsbo, WA
The rappel descent description could be improved too - from the (MP) Pitch 6 rappel, I went too far right on the next rappel, and too far left on the rappel after that. We sorted it out though, and I'm sure with more traffic the lines will be more obvious.
My full, blow by blow beta (including my version of the pitch count and a rough topo of the rappels) can be found here: simmonsmountain.works/notebook/2020/7/22/juniors-farm Jul 22, 2020
After completely the climb, do people scramble up to the summit a few hundred feet above the end? Went up 3/4 of the way, but stopped as it got a bit more exposed and lower 5th class. Very doable, but we were tired and and didnt want to down climb it. Looks like other people make it up there from the old tat and erosion. Aug 27, 2020
Seattle, WA
Phoenix, AZ
I stand by the fact that Pitch 1 is a sandbagged 5.8. Personally, I'd rate it 5.9+/10a. Not only are some of the moves pretty tricky on slopey holds with steep/bulgy climbing, but it's fairly sustained. I found myself pumped out and took a fall midway through. I'd say usually I'm a mid/high 10s climber. The only reason I say this is because it'd suck for the budding 5.9/10a leader to come here and expect to cruise up this route. The climbing SIGNIFICANTLY eases up after this pitch, so at least you've got the tough stuff at the bottom.
Ascent:
The scramble between P5 and P6 does NOT go left. It goes straight up from the P5 anchor up and over some loose rocks/medium sized boulders. You might be tempted to go climber's left as you start as you'll see a fixed line and bolts, but DO NOT DO THIS. We lost quite a bit of time dicking around here. Review the topo.
P6 is the absolutely money pitch of the climb. Steep, exposed, bulgy climbing on positive holds with mostly solid rock. Absolute blast -- it's in a whole different category than any other pitch on the route.
Link P6 and P7. You can bypass a hanging belay. P7 is only 5 bolts, I believe. There are plenty of bolts you can skip on P6 if you didn't bring enough draws. I skipped 3 and it was very comfortable.
P8 seems to have two different anchors. I elected to keep going to the second one as I saw bolts continuing up. If I was doing it again, I wouldn't have. There isn't anything particularly special up at the top, and it makes the rappel quite a bit more awkward. If you want to continue up the 400+ feet of scrambling to reach the true summit, obviously go to the 2nd anchor. We didn't do the ending scramble.
I brought .3 - 3 and some nuts. I wouldn't bring gear again. It's totally unnecessary and mostly just sat on my harness the entire time. Placed two pieces on the P5 - P6 traverse, but that was purely for my follower's comfort.
Descent:
It's already been beaten to death, but at the bottom of P6 go climber's right following the wall to find the rap station that starts the rap route.
Grant Adams in the comments has some great descent beta, particularly: "The 3rd ring after P6 is in a gully farther right than I went so had to swing over." I did the same thing he did. Find the narrow, obvious gully to the climber's right. It's a longer rappel and the anchors are hidden. We had a 70m and only had a couple of meters left when we hit the anchor.
Overall, I really like this route. It's adventure-y climbing (dirty, mossy, chossy, in places) but it's also got a couple of really solid rock pitches and it's in a beautiful setting where you're very likely to be the only people on route.
Oh, and I have no idea why this is given a PG-13. Don’t let that keep you from climbing it. May 17, 2021
After reading reports on the MP app and finding some more stuff online we planned to bag the summit after finishing this climb- hiking reports said there's a trail from the top. We knew there would be some unprotected scrambling but figured we could manage given that one comment said the true summit was about 400ft above the final pitch. As mentioned in a comment I just found on the MP website, it's over a mile to the summit as the crow flies, and about another 2000ft of elevation. We probably should have pieced together the difference between the summit elevation and the climb, so that's on us.
It's doable, but don't try it if you're not up for low 5th scrambling, bushwacking, and getting lost for a bit. We eventually found a goat trail that got us up to the ridge line and true summit, but it took some lucky guesses and a couple hours of poking around to get somewhere we were confident would go.
Aside from that, the climb was rad, and there are some sick walls above the climb that need to be sent. Jul 10, 2021
Port Angeles, WA
Portland, OR
Thought the scrambles were mellow and didn't need gear. My follower agreed.
Keep in mind this route is in the sun all day. It was only 75 when we did it but was still fairly hot, probably wouldn't want to do it on any hotter day. Jul 31, 2021
Was not obvious where to find the crag, but someone in the crag notes left accurate coordinates ( before finding the coordinates we had driven up and down the road looking for a boulder field, we found one that matched the description but the coordinates we found after were great confirmation). Next time I would just get the coordinates and drive straight to the way point. We drove the night before and camped, and in the night we just camped at the roads end, google called it Tylar peak trailhead. The Trail is hilariously faint, mostly not visible from road. We were the first to arrive so no cars to hint us. It’s a pretty forest crag!
First pitch felt like a 5.10a, was pumpy, holds were consistently not as good as they’d look, definitely crux of the route. If you get up first pitch your fine for the rest. The pitch really woke me up! We also had trouble identifying which bolt line was the first pitch to the multi, maybe because we failed to download the images from mt proj separate to the text? we had no images to go off of and text was minimal (and ZERO Wi-Fi after you leave the Sequim area). We knew the starting pitch was five lines over, but it seems that five lines over was an overhanging route and that didn’t seem right. We finally found each routes chains and used their recorded heights to realize the one we wanted was “four lines over” and therefore there was a hidden climb around the corner on the climbers right to explain why it was climb #5 on mt proj.
Anywho, first pitch has a few anchor options, we skipped the first and opted for second, later we wondered if our 70 m rope could reach to what seemed to be a rap anchor at the bottom of the 2nd pitch without drag, not sure. Second pitch was interesting, pitch 3/4 seemed linkable with our 70 m rope but our 14 draws were not nearly enough to link. Both were super easy. I brought trad gear for scrambles and felt silly, never touched, the scrambles felt very very doable. Fixed lines were great but the second fixed rope between pitch 4 and 5 seemed tattered and has a core shot , I will try to attach photo. p5,6,7 were the star pitches (with p6/7 being linkable with around 17 draws?)— big, interesting features, p6 was a bit exposed and over hung but def appropriately 5.8 (unlike first pitch lol)
p8 had interesting start, first set of chains is good for stopping and going straight down to manage time, second set of anchors was flat and allowed you to keep scrambling up. As said elsewhere, you can keep scrambling for quite a while if you brought good approach shoes and had the time! We went up a ways and was interested but ultimately had to go. We chose to rap p 8 in two parts, but prob would have been better to down climb to the lower p8 anchors. It seems like there were too many opportunities for rope to get stuck to just pull down the rope from bottom of p8 if you rapped from true top. Down scrambling wasn’t bad, but it was a bit akward getting onto the p7 hanging belay, we just clipped a QuickDraw as handhold. W/ our 70 m we rapped both p7&6 in one rap and then continued down the rap route.
We struggled to find the anchors of rap route. First anchor is slightly below p6, then you need to stay on the base of the mountain to find next one, then you go down on climbers left towards the more solid rock, then you need to head climbers right to the narrow (green it seemed) gully, the next one takes you to a huge meadowy ledge and just keep going to the edge of it will find the last one. Last rap is down into trees and bushes.
Overall cool adventure route, not super difficult, kept us busy! It was kindly bolted (but not over bolted) in my opinion. from the bottom, many of the bolts are hidden so it certainly looks runout. It was less straightforward than some of the shorter multi pitches I had done before. Satisfied overall. Jul 3, 2022
Salt Lake City
Fixed line on first traverse was shot between last 2 bolts... (But nice ledge there)
Linked the next pitch (p5 or "P6" if counting traverses) with the following scramble (3rd class) to skip hanging belay. This scramble was unprotected and with loose death boulders... tread with caution. 70m reached bottom of p6 (or P8 if counting scrambles)..
P1 5.8+ ~40m (pass 2 sets of anchors to ledge)
P2 5.7 (starts to right of top of P1, ends at ledge)
P3 5.6 (starts to right of top of P2 at ledge/Chock stone)
P4 low/mid 5th
Short easy exposed traverse fixed line to right.
P5 ("p6") low/mid 5th
scramble (loose ridge-like)
P6 ("P8") 5.8 "pillow talk pitch"
Didn't do P7/P8 ("P9/P10"), but previous beta suggestion linking p6+P7 to avoid hanging belay.
We bailed here. Rapped down gully climbers right (as per previous beta)- got peppered with lots of loose gravel when rapping/pulling ropes, but avoided some death rocks.
3 minute walk skiers right back to base of route.. maybe try switch backing to avoid steepness/erosion.
Neat unique bolted adventure climb in remote area that has some loose rock, great belay ledges, good views, gets sun most of day, good free camping nearby. Gratitude to the developers. Aug 9, 2022
We brought four cams (.3 - .75) and a set of nuts, they seemed entirely unnecessary. We did pitch out the traverses but the more exposed scrambling has bolts on the hand line you can clip and the unprotected sections are very easy and not terribly exposed. I would not rate this climb as PG13 nor would I bring the recommended pro of cams from 0.3 - 3 and nuts, that seems like overkill.
In regards to the descent I would highly recommend a 70 meter rope, we brought a 60 and to get back to the base of pitch 6 you have to do a rappel from a hanging position that doesn't fit two people very well. I think a 70 meter would avoid this issue and save a lot of time. We followed Chris' rappel write up on his page (link in his comment), which we found spot on, and it was useful to have the rappel topo saved on our phone. With a 60 meter rope you just barely reach some of the anchors specifically what Chris calls rappels 5 to 6 and 6 to 7 and you won't really see anchor 6 until you are on it. Basically you just have to keep going to the end of your rope and trust you'll find the anchor.
All in all a worthwhile excursion to the Olympics, thanks for establishing this route and putting your time and money into it. Sep 11, 2022
Port Angeles, WA
Bellingham, WA
For the rappels, we had a 70 M. As others have said, you can rap with a 60M , but when we were struggling to find the anchors we were glad for the extra length, just for moral support. To start the rap route at the bottom of pitch 6, find the narrow gully on the FAR climbers right off the rappel anchor. If your body isn’t touching the wall, you’re not far right enough. The rap anchors are located under a small tree in the gully. Next anchors are directly below in the rocky gully, as per Chris’ beta which we found the most accurate. Next rap anchors are climbers right, look over the rocky spine for the blue green gully. The anchors are located beneath a band of blue green rock that makes up the wall of the gully. Final rap anchors of the descent are on a rock directly below the end of the blue green gully, these ones get you to the ground. Prepare for gardening and loose rocks. Not including the top rappels, from the bottom of pitch 6, 4 rappels get you on the trail which is steep, slippery dirt.
Trees/shrubs near rap anchors have a bit of remaining ribbon. We didn’t see it until we were already on or near the anchors. If anyone’s going up early next spring it would be nice to get those replaced. Oct 15, 2022