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Routes in Entry Walls

11b Entrance Wall Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Passenger, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devil Bush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
French Roast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hand Me Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 174 total · 6/month
Shared By: SCherry on Apr 9, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Access is fragile here: no fixed draws allowed Details

Description

This is an awesome route albeit a bit dirt covered. Don't let the dirt discourage you...Its steep and varied with great movement.

Begins at a very prominent left facing corner on the left side of the entry walls. There is a big grey slippery water polished slab below the corner feature. The Limestone Bible says you can protect the start with a few hand size cams. We chose to run it out to the first bolt. The rock is a bit slick but the moves up to here are only about 5.8.

Stem and Jam up the initial corner clipping 2 bolts (long slings recommended). This gains a large ledge with some loose blocks (be careful). Clip up off the ledge and reach to a good rail. Climb the tan face up to a steepening section with big moves between good holds (5.11) and some huge pockets and underclings. A rest is reached under a small roof on the right. Step left from the rest and solve the awesome crux up to jugs (find the thread!) and chains.

Location

Left side of the canyon at the start of the "Entry Walls" section. This route is before the large panel of pictographs on the right and before the main entry wall on the left with the 4-5 moderate routes.

Protection

12 bolts to chains, and an optional cam or 2 for the start

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