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Routes in (p) Spiderman Buttress

Best Left to Obscurity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Captain Fingers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Explosive Energy Child T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
First Ascent Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
In Harm's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Necromancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Out of Harm's Way T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squashed Spider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff Little Fingers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Mike Hartley, Jim Anglin, 1981
Page Views: 129 total, 6/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Apr 7, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

despite what the guide book says, I would say it's not all that bad if 10a soloing is your jam. Oh, and make sure everyone below is cool with playing "dodge the falling Boulder" before beginning your short jaunt to the chains. It starts with standing on a good sized block and stepping onto nubs. In a few short moves, you'll gain the ramp. At that point, simply walk the left leaning ramp (avoiding the obvious loose blocks) to the chains at the top of said ramp.

Location

Large block left of the main buttress with a left leaning ramp starting about 15 or so feet off the ground. The anchors are shared by explosive energy child. We climbed this to setup a TR for energy child although there are safer options to do accomplish the same outcome.

Protection

Gear to 2". I think there was a place for a 3" piece but it looked like chose mud pie. Gear isn't that bad after the starting runout. Anchors with chains at top.

Photos

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LEFT-leaning ramp, no? May 22, 2017