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Routes in The Adamants

Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
East Peak of Gothics - "North East" Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Houdini Needle(s) "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mt Thor - East Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
N E Ridge of Pioneer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A1
NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A1
Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+
South Buttress, Adamant Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall") T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 PG13
West Buttress of the Horn T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade III
FA: members of Harvard Mountaineering club 1953
Page Views: 193 total · 7/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Apr 6, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description [Suggest Change]

More interesting than the normal snow-slog via Friendship Col, combines some ice and rock climbing.

From Fairy Meadow hike up towards Adamant-Austerity but bear left after getting around the lower end of the north ridge of Sentinel.

Continue towards Pioneer Pass [photo], cross bergshrund and climb high angle snow or ice above 'shrund to the pass itself.

Head right towards the east ridge (rock) [photo] and up this [photos] to snow summit and then on to the rock summit.

Descent- We descended the standard route to the col between Pioneer and the East Peak (of Gothics). [East Peak can easily be included in the itinerary with a moderately fast party.] From the col follow glacier back to Friendship Col and Fairy Meadow.

Location [Suggest Change]

Pioneer Pass is the col between Sentinel and Pioneer.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Small alpine rack, perhaps a couple-to-a-few of ice screws.
In 1982 we used a short-thin pition to protect the traverse on East Peak of Gothics.


More About Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge