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Routes in The Philosopher's Stone

Alchemist, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Art-of-Fact S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bitter Endings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Faction of Traction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fiction of Friction S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fountain of Youth S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Immortal Technique S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Law of Equivalence , The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Mr. Know it All S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Philosophers Stone , The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Cell, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Collins
Page Views: 292 total, 15/month
Shared By: Alan Collins on Apr 4, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This was the first line bolted on The Philosopher's Stone. The crux comes passing the first bolt and getting established to clip the second bolt. This is where the PG-13 rating comes from. With a good belay, it is safe, but it is good to be on your toes getting to where you clip the 2nd bolt.

The entire route features red rock that is perfect. The rock doesn't crumble or break even though it is not well traveled. After the first arete crux, climb through a few bolts of 5.11 before the final crux passing the last bolt to the anchors. Work a couple gastones to get to a sloper to clip the anchors at your waist or clip low off the gastone.

Location

Left side of The Philosopher's Stone.

Protection

5 bolts and anchors.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Alright! See you in a month:) Apr 6, 2016
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
 
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
 
do it and let me know what you think. I truly think a lot of the lines I been lucky enough to bag lately are 4 star quality. It is subjective though. I have bolted plenty of lines i would agree arnt 4 start quality, but some of them are. This one and the Stoney Surfer are both shockingly alike at the cruxes. The rock quality and movement on these routes justify the star quality.

You should come try some of the new lines in the marsupial, there is a good amount of routes to climb in a small area. I just bolted and redpointed another 12a today that is good. It extends off ADHD (5.10c) 5 more bolts. This one isn't 4 stars but still worth doing.

I am looking for as much of a community consensus on the start quality and more so the route grades. Let me know if you make it out to the marsupial wall and the philosopher stone. Apr 5, 2016
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Damn Alan! Do you ever bolt routes that aren't 4 star perfection? I'm going to have to book a trip just to sample your new bolt jobs! Apr 5, 2016