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Secret Tryst

5.11b, Sport, 6 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 30 votes
FA: KJames Garrett and Franziska Garrett
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Arizona Strip > Lime Kiln Canyon > Sacred Trust

Description

Wear Helmets!

P1 5.10b 20m, start up the slightly less than vertical face that is very well bolted. One 5.10 move followed by very easy slab climbing up to the anchor.

P2 5.10c 20m, from the anchors follow the red bolts up the technical face. This pitch is just like the others in that it is remarkably well bolted. Small but good hands lead to a large ledge with lots of loose rock. Be careful on this ledge. There are also some prickly bushes on the ledge, not that you care, maybe you do.

P3 5.11b 30m, from the ledge you have options. There are three routes that span out from this point so if you want to know about them look them up in a guidebook. If you want to do the third pitch that I think is the correct one then head straight up from the anchors of p2. You will go over an easy roof and keep the corner to your left. Establish yourself on the blank face and enjoy the techy smears to the next ledge.

P4 5.11a 25m, Pull the roof above the anchors and establish yourself in the corner and finagle your way through it. Spoiler alert, it mellows out bought 3/4 of the way through. Watch the belay ledge, again, for loose rocks.

P5 5.9 20m, Pretty short pitch that could be combined with P6, but if you don't then you don't. Fairly fun face climbing on good holds

P6 5.10d 20m, Are you masochistic? Then you'll love this pitch, techy into a crack that is very sharp. I don't necessarily agree with 5.10d but that's what the bible has it at. Regardless, get through the crack and enjoy the view.

Descent: Rap the route, 60m works just fine.

Location

To my knowledge this is the last route on climbers left before the 5.12 climb There is a medium sized tree at the base that splits two climbs, this is the climb on the left.

Protection

Lots of bolts, all belays are bolted, several pitches look like they could go on gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tim linking P1-2. The bolt line to the right is Simple Truths
[Hide Photo] Tim linking P1-2. The bolt line to the right is Simple Truths
Looking at the sacred trust, Secret Tryst is highlighted.
[Hide Photo] Looking at the sacred trust, Secret Tryst is highlighted.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Register is still there but the lid was missing and nothing inside. Funny, I actually found the lid when pulling my rope from a big boulder up and left of the start. I left the lid at the base. I think you should remove it though.

I really enjoyed the route, thanks for all the hard work.

The Bible says you can rap this route in 3 pitches with 1 70. I don't think this is possible. We were able to do it in 3 with an 80 but had to leave webbing on the last anchor of the route to the left. It would be nice if that anchor had chains as it was the best way down from the top for all the routes. Oct 23, 2017
[Hide Comment] No issues linking p1+P2 and P3+p4 with a 60M rope. We passed on climbing the last pitch. Mar 28, 2018
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Probably best to just skip the last two pitches. Rock quality and movement deteriorates the higher you go. Easy to link P1+2, P2+3... rap with a 70m in three raps from the top of P4. Nov 28, 2019
[Hide Comment] I was glad to do them all. Not saying you would be missing a lot by not, but was fine and enjoyed finishing to the rim. Nov 29, 2019
Adam bloc
San Golderino, Calirado
 
[Hide Comment] This one has the red bolts after P1! P1-3 are great, we switched right to Simple truths at the obvious ledge for our 4th pitch. Dec 25, 2019
Skyeler Congdon
Western Slope
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I was skeptical about the last two pitches after reading these comments. So glad I climbed to the rim anyway!! Last two pitches link easily with some extended draws, back cleaning and skipping bolts. Its true the rock is unbelievably sharp, but its actually cool because it forces you to really slow down, climb it well, move gently. If you think you may be tempted to jam the crack, as I was, I really wished I would've taped up! But looking closely, you can find bomber hand jams where the rock is smooth... just take your time.

Grades were ridiculously soft on this, and I thought the second pitch was just as hard, if not harder than the 3rd and 4th. But the rock quality is AMAZING, the first 4 pitches are basically as good as the Blue Goodness sector on the Grail, and its def worth it IMO to top the rig out. Jan 26, 2021
Sunshine Burns
Irvine, CA
[Hide Comment] I must have missed something on p5 and p6. I linked 4, 5, and 6, and somewhere around 5/6 I followed a line of bolts that just ended. I ended up doing a 25 ish ft runout to the next available bolts up and right. Not hard climbing, but the rock quality was suspect. Maybe I missed a traverse somewhere?
Great route otherwise Mar 1, 2021