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Routes in The Machine Gun

Band of Gypsies V1 5
Buddy Miles V3 6A
Dirty Harry V1 5
Eelin' Groovy V2 5+
Gypsy Funk V0+ 4+
Hired Goons V1 5
Kingpin V3 6A
Machine Gun Funk aka Susan's Arete V2 5+
Maniacal Moray V2 5+
Piranha V0- 4-
Your Mom's Traverse V2 5+ PG13
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Type: Boulder, 11 ft
Page Views: 180 total · 7/month
Shared By: Stanley Baker on Apr 3, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start matched on the incut on the left of the boulder in the crack. Traverse right using whatever hands you can find in the crack and small feet. Compress as much as you can when you get to the big boulder, swinging your feet from the left to right side. Top out via Band of Gypsies.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the Machine Gun boulder.

Protection [Suggest Change]

One pad works as long as someone's moving it with you.


There's a cool dyno/deadpoint problem straight up from the start of this. Using the cracks and going straight up is in the gb as "Cougar Magnum V2" I don't think the dyno is any easier or harder but I have some reach going for me, shorties may have to really fly but the lip is sticky. Apr 9, 2018

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